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Thread: Help...2L engine backfire with flame and power loss

  1. #1
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    Help...2L engine backfire with flame and power loss

    hi
    first long run scince replacement engine and ive got backfiring w flashes from exhaust and loss of power till stall.car was at 80c at the start and ran fine until 3 or so kms . then in 4th it started backfiring and lost power till stall{temp sitting on 80c still}...waited for a bit {1 or 2 mins} starts fine again ....for 700 meters then the same again..you get no response from throttle just loss of power{not cut out but over 30 secs }and backfiring..wait,,,start again etc etc till home...
    there is no major smoke issue although the exhaust system is very oily from the old engine.. {the feel of it is similar to vapour lock or an exhaust baffle blocking the exhaust but with the backfire }
    electrics breaking down as engine bay heats up? fuel? ,timing? backfire lighting oil in exhaust as it gets hot enough??
    this only started once id hit 4th at 40 mph plus{40/45}
    Where do I start? supposed to be doing safety inspection in 3 days help
    regards mark

    ps carb was untouched from previous engine ,dist as well {could it be loose wiring on generator?}
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  2. #2
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    Very strange behaviour but with the backfiring, I'd be looking at timing first up.
    Roger


  3. #3
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    the fact it went okay for a while then let go sort of lends itself to ignition component breakdown, would be my first pick

    coil, condensor and or wiring to same etc etc
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  4. #4
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    ignition

    Remember 80% of all fuel problems will be ignition,
    1. Is the plate that the points are screwed to tight at its 2 mounting screws.
    2. Adjust point gap while holding shaft away from the point to make up for play.
    3. Replace points with known good pair, not new pair.
    4. Check timing with light or static.
    5. PM me for a talk.
    6. Replace plugs.
    Dennis

  5. #5
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    erratic running

    Hi Mark

    My first thoughts are; is the coil the correct 12 volt / or good healthy one as it maybe breaking down when it warms up?

    The next thing to check is the points, look and see if they haven't come loose both in themselves or the advance retard plate they are fastened to, if that plate was stuck when the timing was done, the plate could have freed up it's movement throwing the timing setting out.

    That advance retard plate should have a fine braided earth wire between the plate and the body of the distributor, make sure it isn't loose or broken as any other current path to earth from the distributor points can cause erratic results.

    The last thing electrically to check is the condenser, best way to check that, is to change it with a known working one.

    Drain the carby and watch for any water or dirt, a bottle of methylated spirits in the tank is a crude way of getting rid of a small amount of water in the petrol, flush the carby out and blow it clean with compressed air should sort any problems there.

    .

  6. #6
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    rabbits foot

    Oh yes there is something else, the ignition switch !
    Don't have any weight on the key as when it swings the contacts in the switch can move upsetting the power to the coil.

    The cure is a new switch and then you can go back to hanging your rabbits foot on the key.

  7. #7
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    acc pump

    Mark

    While the engine is turned off.... Remove the air cleaner inlet from the top of the carby and look down into the carby ..... as you move the throttle up/down, look for a squirt of petrol from the accelerator pump , it should squirt a stream of petrol down the throat of the carby

    Sounds like it isn't working .

    It could be one of many things that can go wrong

    Mike

  8. #8
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    no start at all now........
    1/replaced leads with narva 7mm copper core and checked with multimeter.
    2/ new capacitor{ill change back to ol new one that started the car thismorning after disaster run}
    3/clened and gapped points .15
    4/ set points gap at 10 btdc mark ,rotor pointing at c1 lead post on leading edge while pressing diz shaft
    5/ new plugs{equiv of champion n21} gapped .30
    6/tightened all elec bolts from dynamo coil etc
    7/ stuff of key

    not a thing, no sign of firing
    going to pop out and drain carbie and put old coil back in and look at carb with intake hose of then douse it in petrol and walk away{damd power line over top of car.....one of those days...
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  9. #9
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    change condensor back and looked at banjo bolt & filter{spotless}
    car runsagain but 400 meters and it dies...
    had a look down carb with petrol pump running and a trickle of fuel squirts out when throttle levers worked...
    coil is hand warm.....
    theres a unknown white body'd lucas coil that came with engine, perhaps its ok but i dought it
    ill look at the spark when it gets dark and sort that oil leak and try the other coil
    Last edited by mfc; 5th April 2013 at 11:08 PM. Reason: corect
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  10. #10
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    dissy

    When you install the dissy , it is a rather tricky job and it is easy to do it incorrectly and it isnt a easy thing to describe either lol .

    The leading edge of the rotor arm must be just approaching the relevant ( No 1. lead ) connection inside the cap - with the timing mark on the flywheel at the correct position. When its set up correctly , looking at it, you think the rotor isnt close enough to the lead to work properly . The vacuum advance pulls the thing into the correct position , so it sparks at the correct point .

    I had to fiddle with the dissy drive gear position and it took me ages to get it all lined up


    Yours might be out of position, timing wise .

    I used a vacuum hand tool and connected it to the carby end of the pipe , I watched the dissy mechanism advance as I allpied vacuum to the pipe

    Mike

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