I broke down in Wilmington outside the Landrover Museme . My coil bit the dust.
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I broke down in Wilmington outside the Landrover Museme . My coil bit the dust.
Hi there Mike
It was nice meeting you today........and a nice truck
Safe travels buddy
Wayne
I was making good time across SA but occasionally the old girl would cut out for a few seconds and start again . Then as I came into Wilmington I could not believe my eyes there parked on the side of the road was another 109 same colour same condition unrestored. I pulled up and met Dave and his son who own the Wilmington Toy Museum. We had a good chat and then went down the road to visit another ALURO member Ellard and check out his fire engines. Then on the way back to town my old girl decided to stop. We found the coil had died Dave gave me a spare coil and a spare dizzy,points, and replaced a blown headlamp. Off I went again all running sweet for about 30 mins and the coil blew again. So called the RAA and got a tow into town . Will get a new coil in the morning and get the auto sparky to check out the power to the coil from the ignition. There seems to be a short that is making the coils blow. Better it happend here than on the Nullabor. More pics to come
Mike
See the pics
See pics
Thanks very much Dave for helping me out and finding the source of the oil leak (banjo bolt back of head) now tightened and the loose dizzy . Also for all the bits you gave me etc. It's nice to know I'm not the only old Landrover nutter out there and to think my wife reckons I've got it bad with 3 landys .
Mike
Remember the story I told you of The SA copper who booked me for speeding in the Disco. Well I drove through a tiny little town today and there he was. Lucky he was booking someone else and had his back turned to me. I have had several look at me but none have bothered to pull me over.
Mike
Hi Mike
A near constant current through the primary winding would make the coil heat up, this can lead to a breakdown in the insulation between the windings and this in turn upsets the magnetic field within the coil leading to more heat.
Check your wire leading into the points and make sure it cant momentary short out, when the points are open.
The condenser needs to be changed for the same reason, if it breaks down with movement / or vibration it can also short that wire coming from the coil to the points.
The other thing that sometimes trips people up, is the fitting of a low voltage coil meant for a circuit that has resistance between the ignition switch and it's coil, such as a 7 volt coil in a Holden with a red motor. The coil meant for a Land Rover has 12 volts stamped on the bottom on the canister.
Failing that, to use a low voltage coil, fit a dropper resister in line of the ignition to distributor wire.
( Cars fitted with that type of wiring, can also have another feed coming direct from a momentary-on contact on the starter solenoid to the coil, this allows a hotter spark while the starter motor is being engaged ).
Check your rotor button by holding the high tension wire from the coil just above the rotor button wiper ( where the carbon button sits in the centre of the rotor button ) and if there is a strong spark jumping at that place, that means the rotor button has a internal short down through to the top of the distributor drive shaft.
Old bakelite tends to get porous with age and can hold moisture within itself causing a short, ( --- you did get the distributor wet the other day ), so best to change both the cap and the rotor as well as the coil.
When setting the points gap on a distributor that may be worn, check the points gap at each of the four lobes in case the distributor shaft is laying a bit to one side.
That's enough Arthur, you would worry sheep! :whistling:
Mike,
If you are still in WILMINGTON go and see Dave about it.
He's a dab hand with landies.
(say G'day from Digger)