Galvanising

Todays efforts
Fitted the door. Not that there is much in that, though behind the door redrilled the tub to fit the bracket that the catch bolts to. Door closes well and all the gaps are parallel. Also put the rivets around the handle. Glad it is only a 2 door, not real fussed on this job- thousand hits later. All the panels line up ok.On the inside I like the contrast of the fresh galvanising against the dark green of the panel.
I placed the cab hoop in place to get an idea of how it will look. The original intention was to fit a canvas truck cab without the door tops or alternately just fold the window down with the fittings clipped to the bonet catches. Either way should be a good summer vehicle.

Bit more progress.
Replaced the galvanised fittings to the tailgate. I like to refit components as soon as possible so they don't get damaged in the shed.
I put some older defender wheels on to move the car forward so I could swing the passenger door. Looks pretty stupid with 32inch tyres on 8inch rims. They are very temporary.
Got an etch coat and primer on the actual rims today. All going well colour tomorrow. I ended up going for an enamel matched to the acrylic of the panels. Bit of harder in the mix. Hopefully this should withstand the tyre levers better. Some of the rims were riveted others spot welded. I had 10 to choose from so selected the 6 that ballanced up best.

Second go at the colour. First go at painting was horrible. The finish had a number of bits that were sprayed into the finish. It was my first shot at Enamel. I much prefer the Acrylic. I returned to the paint shop and picked up some paper filters. I was amazed how many solids were strained from the mix. It took about 5 minutes for the mix to go through, this was after mixing with the stirring stick for a couple of minutes. Final result is ok. Amazed how many particles had to be removed compared to the Acrylic. Then again there is so much more thinner with Acrylic. The Enamel also had some hardner in the mix.
Also put some tape across the radiator support panel. All progress.

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Originally Posted by brendanm

The finish had a number of bits that were sprayed into the finish. It was my first shot at Enamel. I much prefer the Acrylic. I returned to the paint shop and picked up some paper filters. I was amazed how many solids were strained from the mix. It took about 5 minutes for the mix to go through, this was after mixing with the stirring stick for a couple of minutes.

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Sounds to me as if they sold you some rather old stock, which had separated badly. The only time I have had to use filters, is when I chose to use some very old primer once.

I would tell them that you are not happy - if they couldn't get rid of the lumps by mixing in the shop, they should have found you something better.

Your paint job looks fantastic by the way!

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by chazza

Sounds to me as if they sold you some rather old stock, which had separated badly. The only time I have had to use filters, is when I chose to use some very old primer once.

I would tell them that you are not happy - if they couldn't get rid of the lumps by mixing in the shop, they should have found you something better.

Your paint job looks fantastic by the way!

Cheers Charlie

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I agree , there shouldn't be any rubish in a new can of paint anless it's faulty. I like using enamel because you get a good gloss off the gun & you dont have to buff it to get a shine. Landrovers are hard to buff because it is easy to buff the paint off the rivets & you can't get the asme paint finish around the rivets as the flat panels.

The gloss straight from the Enamel does look good. The acrylic is much more forgiving to a novice painter.
Thought while I had the Aluminium spray from matching the Gal I would spray the inside of the D lamps for a bit of extra reflection. The outer is just a spray can of black. Cardboard blanks the holes.
A drive shaft cobbled together from a couple I had got a coat at the same time. Between grease nipples snapped off flush to the surface and bent/ worn yolks and ceased uni's took longer than I thought.
Nothing like a drying tree in the sun.

Once I 've started on the lights might as well keep going. Couple of questions. I only have one wire to retain the glass. I can use this for a template to bend a second for the other light. Is there anything special with the wire-spring steel? I can probably match the gauge.
For the front I have de-rusted and painted the cups. The inner chrome rings responded well to a steelo scourer. The gal coated rings were wire wheel brushed and cold gal. I was thinking of replacing the 7 inch Lucas sealed unit with a unit that incorporates a parker. I was going to keep the amps as close to original as possible so as not to upset the generator. The outer chrome rings have any number of layers of paint. There does not appear to be any chrome underneath (maybe military) and I have gone back to the brass in sections. I notice all the new replacements have a screw underneath not a bolt type set up to constrict the diameter. There is a chrome place not far from here that I will look into tomorrow.
This way I can use the sidelights on the guards to be the indicators with a replacement orange globe. For the back I have been looking at a UK site that has a glass Lucas indicator similar to the series vehicles with a lense though a lot less domed with a chrome ring. The flatter style complements the reflector better. My other option was to try a local auto distributor of aftermarket accessories to see if there is something local. I don't want to stray to far from original though for safety I would make some changes.

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Originally Posted by brendanm

Once I 've started on the lights might as well keep going. Couple of questions. I only have one wire to retain the glass. I can use this for a template to bend a second for the other light. Is there anything special with the wire-spring steel? I can probably match the gauge.
For the front I have de-rusted and painted the cups. The inner chrome rings responded well to a steelo scourer. The gal coated rings were wire wheel brushed and cold gal. I was thinking of replacing the 7 inch Lucas sealed unit with a unit that incorporates a parker. I was going to keep the amps as close to original as possible so as not to upset the generator. The outer chrome rings have any number of layers of paint. There does not appear to be any chrome underneath (maybe military) and I have gone back to the brass in sections. I notice all the new replacements have a screw underneath not a bolt type set up to constrict the diameter. There is a chrome place not far from here that I will look into tomorrow.
This way I can use the sidelights on the guards to be the indicators with a replacement orange globe. For the back I have been looking at a UK site that has a glass Lucas indicator similar to the series vehicles with a lense though a lot less domed with a chrome ring. The flatter style complements the reflector better. My other option was to try a local auto distributor of aftermarket accessories to see if there is something local. I don't want to stray to far from original though for safety I would make some changes.

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I'll have a look tomorrow ,I may have a spare retaining wire you can have . If i do i dont want anything for it.

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Originally Posted by klonk

Looks like they did a good job, but does seem abit shiney for an old landy. I have vague recollections that the galvanising man told me to wipe it with lemon juice to speed up the aging process. I havent tried it so if you do, do it in an unseen area first. I guess you need to wash it off when you are happy with the colour.

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I used lemon juice to clean my old gall( with a scourer) works well . The juice seems to leave a dull powder ish layer that you scourer off... Fairly gentle process lemon wise , as in on a few bits i left it on overnight didn't seem to deteriorate further than applying , scouring of and washing . It did blend in the worn and unweathered gal well .
Looking like a real nice car there( makes me think about painting mine )
Cheers mark

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

I'll have a look tomorrow ,I may have a spare retaining wire you can have . If i do i dont want anything for it.

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Had a look for the taillight clip today , the only one I have is broken. I have seen the glass stuck in with glass Selastic. The clip needs to be made of spring type wire.