Galvanising

I've got a pair of knockoff d lights that I replaced with pork pies ... If the spring is suitable you're welcome to one ... Take a pic of the good one on a peice of graph paper n ill look
Regards mark

I picked up the parts i was getting today & have to go back next week to pick up another ute load & i should have some new D lamp wire clips in the next load . It may take me a couple of weeks to go through the 200 fruit boxes of parts I PU today . Iwill let you know when i find the rims.Wayne

Thanks Wayne. Sounds like a really good score.

These are the L/R head light rim's I have , there are 3 chrome new ones & 1 S/H one ( looks as good as new) & 5 painted S/H ones . The D lamp clips i should have some time next week , will let you know the cost then .
Wayne

That looks exactly what I was after with the chrome and the screw mechanism underneath. Let me know some details closer to postage and I can send some money your way.

Thanks to Wayne for the suggestion to use rust converter. Puts my mind at ease knowing everything that can be done to stop future rusting, is being done. Once upholstered they wont be checked much until something goes wrong. On some of the lower backs there was not a lot of metal left. Given they are unseen the fibre glassing worked well and added strength. They were painted with some cold gal, then a second coat of the aluminium spray as thet is what is left over at the moment.
Heard back from the Exmoor rep the other day. The price is nearly double that of getting them professionally upholstered. Probably depends how much time you want to muck around with them. I also need to factor in foam and the $25 for the glass. I am kind of happy to know I am recovering part of history as opposed to assembling new components when there is a viable alternative that keeps character.

The spray cans of aluminum colour is as near to galv colour as you will get. We used it on any galv we had to touch where the galv had been chiped in transport . We used to spray cold galv then light spray of aluninum & when the top coat was about 3/4 dry wipe it with a rag. When i was buying my 3 mam canvas tilt i got a price to make local $2000 ,Series One Shop was $800 + freight & John Craddock was 317.37 pounds with a tool roll & freight to Brisbane,which worked out at around $600 at the time:D I also then bought my door top flaps from Craddocks latter so i could match the colour of the tilt I think the cost was around $50 delivered. Looking at your restoration I keep thinking i should repaint Landy , its been 26years since the rebuild .

Dropped the seats off to the upholsterer today. It has been nice to be back in my comfort zone and work with some timber. The seat bases are Dominoed Iron Bark with some exterior ply. I routered all the air holes to minimise chipping then oiled all the timber in an attempt to prolong the service life. At the bottom of the backs I cut some Huon Pine offcuts to shape, then glued and riveted in place as a substrate to take the upholstery staples. In a trial fit it all looked good.
I went for some high density foam, 4 inch on the seat and 2 inch on the back. I figured over a bump if there was more resistance to feeling the seat frames this would be a good thing. Should be ready next week.

Hi Dennis
My email is doing funny things so might be just as easy to give you some images in the thread. Hope some of these are of use.

With boring the extra holes, This may be a preventative of moisture getting trapped while immersed in hot liquid. And The original holes were smaller because the metal was new and may have had no chance of moisture to ingress.

Just a thought.