Distributor and Carburetter reconditioning?

**Defender Mike** · 24th June 2013, 08:33 PM

Hi I went through the same thing on my trip across Australia last week . Backfiring and a miss get yourself a new coil only $ 25 bucks make sure its a 12 volt W/O resister (without). My 109 is wired negative earth as well make sure the neg side is going to the dizzy . Check your earth wire inside the dizzy the old type insulation comes off and can cause a problem I put some shrink insulation around mine. Also check your dizzy has not come lose mine did on the rough track and this helped kill the coil. Give all your contacts a good clean up with some emery or wet and dry as well and make sure everything is connected properly. May need to squash your plug connectors a bit tighter as well. Mine had an annoying miss until I did the compression check today and then it healed must have been a lose plug lead. PS check if you coil is getting really hot that's a sign its stuffed.
Mike

**gromit** · 24th June 2013, 09:01 PM

Vehicles of this age used a 12V coil, 6V coils were later used with ballast resistors. Hit the 6V coil with double the voltage and get double the spark, then drop the voltage to 6V for running.

Not sure about the resistor in the parts book but often a resistor was used to reduce electrical 'noise'. Some plug caps had built in resistors but the original Series I caps didn't so what you have found is possibly an in-line suppressor.

Which light are you calling the 'ignition warning light'. Is it the charging light which should go out as the engine speed increases (dynamo) or goes out once the engine is running (alternator) ?

Colin

**Hebe** · 26th June 2013, 01:38 PM

Yes, the light is the middle one, the charging light, manual says "Ignition Warning Light" I guess because it is only meant to be on during ignition.

Anyone can confirm that there should be 'continuous' 12 Volt going towards the coil?

**gromit** · 26th June 2013, 02:34 PM

Originally Posted by Hebe

Yes, the light is the middle one, the charging light, manual says "Ignition Warning Light" I guess because it is only meant to be on during ignition.

Anyone can confirm that there should be 'continuous' 12 Volt going towards the coil?

With the ignition on there should be a continuous 12V supply to the coil.

Colin

**wrinklearthur** · 26th June 2013, 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by Hebe

Yes, the light is the middle one, the charging light, manual says "Ignition Warning Light" I guess because it is only meant to be on during ignition.

Anyone can confirm that there should be 'continuous' 12 Volt going towards the coil?

There should be 12 volts continuous going to the coil from the ignition switch when that switch is on.

The wire going to the distributor from the coil, should measure 0 volts in respect to the battery earth when the engine is stationary with the points in the closed position, also when the ignition switch is on.

If the points wire has any voltage at all in that situation, points have a poor contact or there is a faulty connector somewhere.

All the measurements should be done in this instance with a high impedance meter ( a digital multimeter is fine for doing this ).
.

**Charlie's brother** · 27th June 2013, 09:45 PM

Hi There,

No need to send anything to UK! There are many useful people here in Oz. Your distributor can be repaired by 'Performance Ignition' in Mitcham, they do a very good job on things that go round and round.
Your Carby can be repaired by Wilson Carburettor Service in Airport West who also do a very good job on things that suck!
I repaired my carby myself including making new diaphragms. It really needs to be cleaned out thoroughly. I sent the throttle body to Jim at Wilsons and he did a marvellous job on it.
Hope this helps.

Cheers Nick.

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