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Thread: My 1955 86" rebuild.

  1. #701
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    PTO

    I haven't attempted any work on the Series 1 in months, (bought a new lathe etc.,) anyway with the cold weather and way too cold to be in the shed on some days, I placed the rear PTO assembly in my parts washer, I opened the oil drain bungs and filled it with diesel and have let it soak for a few days as it's very tight ? seized.
    It's raining here today so I decided to try and get the right angle drive section into pieces to inspect any damage/rust that may have built up over the years from neglect/sitting out in the open up in the Armidale region of NSW.
    Well the nuts etc., came undone without too much fuss, not like the trouble I had separating the right angle drive from the main body some time, anyway here is an image partially dismantled

    I couldn't turn the bevel shaft at first, but some help from a large screwdriver moved it quite easily, and in no time it was spinning freely, a sharp blow with a brass hammer and it was in bits

    babysitting duties made me cut short the time spent as the wife had to attend a school function, so that put paid to that, anyway it started to rain again and I was getting wet, I need 2 seals, wash out the housing, clean the alloy casing and re-assemble it, cheers Dennis

  2. #702
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    Looks like a good project for a rainy day.
    Who actually made the right angle drives? Were they a Land Rover part or was it Fairey or some other company?
    Dennis what solvent do you normally use in your parts washer, it looks sparkling clean as do the parts you have washed up.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  3. #703
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    They are Rover parts, sold through dealers and with Landrover part numbers, but I suspect they were made for Rover by someone else. (As were many other parts of the vehicle)

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #704
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    As John has stated above, I have only found serial numbers in 2 locations, I suspect that the seal sizes might be the same as some early Land Rover ones the numers on 2 seals that I have removed are 275124, but so far a part number search through Blanchards came up with zulch LOL, so I will have to try
    and source them through the local bearing service.
    As to the parts washer, I have used mainly 'supercheap' brand of detergent, but a word of caution "Don't leave" the solution in the washer for any extended llength of time, as the water content evaporates quickly leaving behind a sludgey mess, at the moment is has diesel fuel in it, and I don't know whether I would use the 240V pump with the fuel in there, it works well with the stuff from supercheap, anyway it's still raining here on/off so I'm off to a supplier of model engineering materials, too many jobs on the go, my mind is cluttered with this n that cheers Dennis

  5. #705
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    Well after a bit of cross eyed checking between part numbers in the parts catalogues between Series 1 &S2/2A, I had been looking for the number stamped into the old oil seal 275124, now my instincts told me that why would you have a oil seal not compatible with other oil seals on the Land Rover, and after looking through the Series 1 parts book I cross matched 217507 and guess what, they are 'diff/pinion oil seals' that is going to make the job a little less costly as I would have them in the shed, but I will have to shell out for an expensive 'speedi-sleeve for the pinion driving seal shaft.
    But the drama didn't end with that as the 2 oil seals in the PTO drive section have different part numbers grrrr!!! they are 217508, no listing anywhere Blanchards website shows them as a part number but no price, hat tells me no stock, so that will be a bearing service job, as usual one step forwards 3 backwards, cheers Dennis

  6. #706
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    The parts are listed in the Series 2a/3 optional equipment parts book.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #707
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    We use kero in our Super Cheap parts washer the 240v pump hasn!t given us any trouble , it's aboiut 10 years old. Kero makes your hands & cloths smell for a couple of days.
    We,ve got twin grand daughter today & tomorrow , wanted to do L/R things tomorrow at the HoHa,s. Have to do it another time.

  8. #708
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    While I'm waiting for a 0.020" thick HSS slitting saw to arrive & the carburetor off 114-194 to be rebuilt @ Allcarb Newcastle, I fired up the compressor and grit blasted a few of the items off the PTO, they went underwater in the flood of 2015, some before n after bits

    blew all the dust off, etch primed painted in Gloss Black

    the alloy parts and other bits are still soaking in diesel, hopefully it will allow me to get all the hard oil stained dirt off them soon, cheers Dennis
    ps the slitting saw is to cut a 20 thou slit in some mild steel ( a jig) to a depth the same width as the spring steel I'm using to make leaf springs
    for my 5" gauge live steam loco, it will a device to make sure the spring steel is drilled in the correct place and with consistency, I just hope
    I don't break it as it's going to cost $63.00 eeeeekkkk!!!!.

  9. #709
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    This morning I took the PTO drive to pieces, the drive flange was not in good order, the area where the seal runs on is rusted n pitted, the brain kicks in here as the drive flange looks a like the output flange (front wheel drive) on the T/case, check parts book and they are the same, I soon found a very good replacement in amongst my stuff, the seal is also a common Land Rover seal as well.
    The steel bits were put through the grit blaster and have been etch primed/painted, seal added to the cover plate, I will re-assemble it tomorrow.
    The pulley was put through the grit blast cabinet, all was going well, when ??? something has either blocked the grit pick up tube, or some other issue is causing the malfunction, so i had to shut down the operation, needless to say the neighbours would have been pleased as it is noisey.
    My wife had to use the rattle gun whilst I held a square blade screwdriver with a 200mm adjustable spanner on the shaft of said screwdriver, to undo the 6 countersunk screws which hold the splined collar into the pulley, I can tell you that was damned hard work, very hard on the wrists (when your old LOL) anyway all in pieces, 3/8" BSF tap through the nuts, but I don't have a 3/8" BSF die/die nut to run over the threads on the Csk screws, ? maybe when I go to pick up the Solex carburetor and the slitting saw, the company supplying the saw might have that item in stock, as they do carry a very comprhensive range of taps/dies etc.,, anyway the rain shut me down again, cheers Dennis

  10. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dinty View Post
    This morning I took the PTO drive to pieces, the drive flange was not in good order, the area where the seal runs on is rusted n pitted, the brain kicks in here as the drive flange looks a like the output flange (front wheel drive) on the T/case, check parts book and they are the same, I soon found a very good replacement in amongst my stuff, the seal is also a common Land Rover seal as well.
    The steel bits were put through the grit blaster and have been etch primed/painted, seal added to the cover plate, I will re-assemble it tomorrow.
    The pulley was put through the grit blast cabinet, all was going well, when ??? something has either blocked the grit pick up tube, or some other issue is causing the malfunction, so i had to shut down the operation, needless to say the neighbours would have been pleased as it is noisey.
    My wife had to use the rattle gun whilst I held a square blade screwdriver with a 200mm adjustable spanner on the shaft of said screwdriver, to undo the 6 countersunk screws which hold the splined collar into the pulley, I can tell you that was damned hard work, very hard on the wrists (when your old LOL) anyway all in pieces, 3/8" BSF tap through the nuts, but I don't have a 3/8" BSF die/die nut to run over the threads on the Csk screws, ? maybe when I go to pick up the Solex carburetor and the slitting saw, the company supplying the saw might have that item in stock, as they do carry a very comprhensive range of taps/dies etc.,, anyway the rain shut me down again, cheers Dennis
    re the having to tap the nuts, a cheap item we use is a thread file, it has many different thread pitches and is available in most of the thread types.
    can do internal and external threads.
    try blackwoods.
    Safe Travels
    harry

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