Thread: Dual oil & water capillary gauges

Jon,

My apologies - I didn't pick up that you were fitting a non Series motor. Yes, I have a 2 litre spread bore. Hey, at least I guess you don't need my photos!

I wouldn't want to comment myself on your 300 Tdi rebuild, because I am completely unfamiliar with the motor. But good luck with the install, and if you would ever like to buy this gauge/kit, I am more than happy to order/pay for it on your behalf as a LRSOC member, and you can sort me for it later.

Dan.

Originally Posted by Scallops

Jon,

My apologies - I didn't pick up that you were fitting a non Series motor. Yes, I have a 2 litre spread bore. Hey, at least I guess you don't need my photos!

I wouldn't want to comment myself on your 300 Tdi rebuild, because I am completely unfamiliar with the motor. But good luck with the install, and if you would ever like to buy this gauge/kit, I am more than happy to order/pay for it on your behalf as a LRSOC member, and you can sort me for it later.

Dan.

Thanks for the offer Dan, very nice of you. I'm a member of LRSOC myself so can order it directly.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Thx
Jon

Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

I'm in the process of putting a 300Tdi into my 86". ----- But, where would the water capillary fit?
-------
My other thought was to remove the ammeter from my original gauge and replace with a temp gauge & voltage stabilizer from (I THINK) a IIa. Then simply just retain the oil pressure light. Not sure I like discarding the ammeter though.

Hi Jon

I don't like the idea of interfering with the top hose, too much movement there for my liking. Instead I'd investigate the unused bung just forward of the rear heater hose fitting in the top of the head.

Years ago when I was just as silly and without any wisdom at all, I fitted a gauge into the instrument cluster by removing the segment that contain the light and fitted a gauge from a Rover 75 car instrument cluster. Make a electronic voltage regular for your instruments as there is a lot less, to no electrical noise generated and that does allow everyone else in the convoy to be able to enjoy their radios.

Before you install your engine, how have you gone about determining the correct position where the engine sits, will the top of the diff housing clear the sump when on hitting a bump with the RHS front wheel?

I see that you are fitting this engine into a 86", pity is it wasn't a S1 88" as then that diff clearance issue wouldn't occur.

If you can find a Diesel series 1 to have a look at, that would be good to copy things like the layout of fuel lines, the wiring loom, etc.

With the clutch bell housing, I have been looking at fitting a hydraulic series 3 clutch and housing arrangement, The housing would need to be fitted to the either late series 2a six cylinder gearbox because of the larger layshaft bearing size or keep a series 3 gearbox, this would also require the fitting of pendulum pedal set from the series 3 as well. This is not a bad idea as it simplifies the fitting of a vacuum booster for the brakes.
.

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi Jon

I don't like the idea of interfering with the top hose, too much movement there for my liking. Instead I'd investigate the unused bung just forward of the rear heater hose fitting in the top of the head.

Years ago when I was just as silly and without any wisdom at all, I fitted a gauge into the instrument cluster by removing the segment that contain the light and fitted a gauge from a Rover 75 car instrument cluster. Make a electronic voltage regular for your instruments as there is a lot less, to no electrical noise generated and that does allow everyone else in the convoy to be able to enjoy their radios.

Before you install your engine, how have you gone about determining the correct position where the engine sits, will the top of the diff housing clear the sump when on hitting a bump with the RHS front wheel?

I see that you are fitting this engine into a 86", pity is it wasn't a S1 88" as then that diff clearance issue wouldn't occur.

If you can find a Diesel series 1 to have a look at, that would be good to copy things like the layout of fuel lines, the wiring loom, etc.

With the clutch bell housing, I have been looking at fitting a hydraulic series 3 clutch and housing arrangement, The housing would need to be fitted to the either late series 2a six cylinder gearbox because of the larger layshaft bearing size or keep a series 3 gearbox, this would also require the fitting of pendulum pedal set from the series 3 as well. This is not a bad idea as it simplifies the fitting of a vacuum booster for the brakes.
.

Thanks Arthur,
Is the unused bung you speak of located between the 4th and 5th head bolt (form the bottom of the picture upwards below)?



As for engine location, I have given this a lot of thought. I am also replacing the S1 gearbox and transfer box with an R380 and LT230.
Before removing the old drivetrain I measured the position of the rear transfer box prop flange relative to the rear props shaft flange. That then determines how far back everything should go. I couldn't measure to the handbrake because Im not sure what I will be using yet. I know the LT230 brake will not fit in without moving the cross member, which I am not doing. I can make an adapter to utilise the S1 hand brake, or I could adapt an X-Eng disc.

I also bit the bullet and bought an Ashcroft Stumpy bell housing so that the gear levers sit in more or less the correct position. With this combination I will not have room for the viscous fan but the pulleys should sit between about 1" and 1/2" rear of the radiators original position. That just leaves the intercooler and an electric fan to mount forward of the rad and behind the grill. I have also removed the power steering pump and relocated the alternator to where the AC unit normally sits - that then creates some space to allow the intercooler pipes to squeeze though to the front.

With regards height of the engine and drivetrain, the gearbox/transferbox will be offered up to the floor / tunnel until it sits more or less right (again I have the height of the old T/box flange height as a refetene). As for the engine, that will need to be as low as possible. To ascertain what "possible" is I was thinking of removing the front springs and sitting the car on its bump stops and going from there upwards. That way, should the car ever have a massive suspension travel then the engine could never come into contact with said diff / axle.


As for the pedals, I have removed the standard pedals, welded up the two holes in the floor and fitted pendant pedals from a S2A, that makes the clutch easy and the brakes fairly simple. At this stage I have simply relocated the original S1 reservoir and mounted it on the pedal box (just like the 2A) and will run a new pipe from the master cylinder to the original pipe union beside the fuel tank. I have had to change the 4 way union for a 5 way one though so that I can install a hydraulic brake switch (don't like the electric switch on the pedal).

I don't plan on installing a vacuum booster, want to keep the brakes as they are (at least for now), I may then look at un-bolting the 10" brakes and replacing with the larger 11" brakes of a (?) 107/109.

There are other issues Ive needed to think about and resolve, but I think above just about sums it up

R
Jon

Jon,
another easy option and is a location I have used for water temp sensing is to replace the thermostat/ top filler bung with a brass plug. Drill and tap it for the sensor.

Temps when running are 100% consistent with the original head location in my experience.

If you sensor is too long and you dont mind reading away from the head you could also use the radiator filler bung, once again replace it with a brass plug drill and tap.

Steve

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Jon,
another easy option and is a location I have used for water temp sensing is to replace the thermostat/ top filler bung with a brass plug. Drill and tap it for the sensor.

Temps when running are 100% consistent with the original head location in my experience.

If you sensor is too long and you dont mind reading away from the head you could also use the radiator filler bung, once again replace it with a brass plug drill and tap.

Steve

Thanks Steve,
I did think about the plastic cap in the thermostat housing. The main reason I thought about other options was height, I suspect the S1 bonnet maybe pretty close to the front/top of the engine and the capillary tub has a bit of height to it also.

Having said that, If Im OK with height, that is a quick and easy solution.

Defo won't have the height on the radiator for the capillary tube.

Thx
Jon

the top of thermo housing with take a standard brass 1/2 BSPT (dont quote me on this)
You could always put an elbow in with a short extension and a cap running the sensor horizontally??

The other option would be to as you say jigger something in the heater circuit.

Out of interest, the heater circuit on a 300tdi is full flow at all times and it is best for rear head temps if you ensure free flow of coolant between those two pipes in your above picture.
That other plug in the head is for unknown fitting I have never seen. From memory it just uses a copper washer to seal. Is definitiely another possibility for your sender.

S