Thread: Bundalenes '51 Restoration

Originally Posted by Redback

Hey Erich, seems to back on track again, well for now, until you're back to flittering around the country side again.

Just a question about the rust and the use of molasses, I have heard cider vinegar does the same thing, the reason I ask is I'm restoring an old bike, and need to clean the rust from inside the tank, any idea which would work better.

Hi Sheila

Hi Baz...and Kerry & Ness... Been a while since we caught up...

Not much help with the above question but Cider Vinegar HAS to smell much nicer than Molasses.... Thank goodness he has the molasses bath up in the back paddock...but the smell seems to still get onto his clothes and it's not very nice!

Hope all is well with you lot, and we can have a get together soon.

Cheers to you all,

Sheila

(Sorry I have diverted off the Series Thread....)

The molasses tank is doing its job, from this









A bit of a clean and dismantle





3 days in the tank with a clean with a hard bristle nylon brush, to this, a few more days and it will be done








If the process is working, you can see the imprint of the soaking parts on the surface of the tank






Today we installed the brake master and pedals. I have a few issues to work around, one is making a spring for the stop light switch, I must do some reading or any hints will be welcomed. This is an extremely light spring. I am reluctant to pinch this off another vehicle I have, even though it is a non goer.

Also the olive shaped bush which from the clutch chassis mount is very sloppy and worn. I am considering sleeving this although there is not much to play with.




Firewall mount and clutch pedal chassis mount (with the bush removed) off to the molasses bath all dis-assembled








Erich

Steering Box early cast iron / steer type

Part of my goal was to understand the individual operation of the vehicle. The steering box on this vehicle is a simple worm drive box with a steel screw and a bronze worm. This end of the box is in very good order, no undue movement, and the output bush is in good order. In theory a worm drive will not transmit any movement from output to input, so if you hit sat a rock the steering shouldn't spin.




































This steering box was full of water, right up to the steering wheel, when I removed it from the vehicle late last year. It has been soaking in Penetrene ever since.


The way I see it:

The top end below the steering wheel has a pair of bearings, one appears to be a fixed ball race and the other is a thrust - a row of balls recessed into the outer collar and running on the shaft. This is the only fixing of the steering column and quite a weak link if you ask me. This appears to be the only lateral support for the steering shaft, so if you do hit a rock, the shaft will want to move in an upward direction, putting a lot of pressure on this small bearing.

Also it appears that the cable to the horn and dipper switch twists one way when turning the wheel in one direction and back the other next time.



I have 3 issues with this box, which I can hopefully overcome.

1 The tube for the cable is jammed, I will work on this
2 The collar supporting the thrust balls which is pinned to the steering box housing is worn, I can either make a new one or work out another arrangement, but I would like it to look the same from the outside.
3 Not sure of bearing and seals, but hopefully there will be generic parts available.

I will have a go at fixing this one first, I do have other such steering boxes, still in vehicles, but they are probably in a similar condition.

Please excuse me as I haven't read up up on these and will do more research, but any suggestions will be welcome






Worn collar and bearing support





We will be away for the next 5 and a bit weeks




Erich