Thread: Starting Woes

Numpty


I'm a long way from being any kind of expert but I'm experiencing the same sought of problem with my SIIA - despite a brand new starter motor and a good battery.


What I found by trial and error is that if I fiddle slightly with the heavy wire between the starter button and the starter she starts brilliantly. So a wiring or earthing problem maybe?? I'm going to remove the wiring today and clean up the contacts. Hopefully that works for you too.


Nic

Perry,
I don't profess to be a series 1 expert but:
As Leon does not have an ECU (electronic control unit) there is not a connection for the nanocom to connect to.
The hard starting sounds like a choke issue as you also say that Leon will not idle on choke.
I would suggest that you take the air cleaner pipework off so that you can see down the throat of the carb and then operate the choke.
The choke butterfly valve in the carb should completely close off the intake and also in turn open the throttle slightly.
If it doesn't it is likely that the cable is broken or has become dislodged from the carb. Possibly it is loose and needs to be tightened up.
Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by Phil B

Perry,
I don't profess to be a series 1 expert but:
As Leon does not have an ECU (electronic control unit) there is not a connection for the nanocom to connect to.
.

G'day Phil.

Tongue was firmly planted in cheek when I posted that.

Sucked in !!

hi perry, how did it go when it lived in warmer climes?


electricity,
ignition,
fuel,


if it started ok when up here, and the batflattery is pumped up enough then
we can assume the timing is ok, so fuel management is a hiccup.
lately here is a bit cold and I have to do a bit more to get mine (2a) running,
all fuel related to my way of thinking,
normally, I just reach in and turn the key, it goes within two or three compressions.
I still haven't got it right, but a bit of choke helps and a gingerly application of hand throttle, and still haven't got in the car at this stage.
in fact, I dont think that I have ever sat in the car to start it since I have owned it.

Are both places where it wouldn't start, and did start level? Was the ground between them level?

Could it be a fuel pump issue?

With the Series 1, the fuel pump should chatter briefly when the ignition is switched on. If it does not do so, find out why. Same if it does not stop - indicates either an air leak in the suction, the pump isn't pumping, or it is flooding. But if the pump behaves normally, then you can assume fuel is getting to the carburettor.

Failure to start easily will then be possibly an ignition problem, and I think this is most likely your problem. This is most likely to be something that is working, but substandard. The first suspect is the points, but these are easily checked. Less easily checked is the condenser, but replacing it is easy and fairly cheap. I was surprised when I had to replace the coil on my 2a a while back, that it started and idled better than it had for many years! Check the voltage at the coil with the ignition on and the points closed - should be very close to battery voltage on the power side (if not find out where it went - connections or switch) and zero on the distributor side - points, connections or the hidden wire connecting the points plate to the body inside the distributor, or the engine/chassis earth if it isn't.

Starting difficulty will be caused by a sluggish starter - which, with an overhauled starter, and a new battery, will usually be due to a poor connection somewhere.

Low compression may also cause starting problems, as will an air leak on the intake manifold. (This will also cause poor idling, particularly when cold).

Then, of course, there is the carburettor. Could be lots of problems with it, although unlikely to be anything serious if it runs OK when warmed up. The choke cable is correctly adjusted, is it?

John

Can you identify the carburetor for us?

If it is a Solex, it just may need a bit of a clean up inside and as John suggested there may be air leakage around the intake manifold.

A vacuum gauge will tell you if there is an air leak and you can find one those gauges in a early Commodore instrument cluster, try at the wreckers.