Thread: The restoration of Wombat

Originally Posted by crackers

And seeing I had to upload this photo for another post, here's the lad working on the rear trim in the cabin.

I may be wrong but that lining I believe is part of the "luxury" optional interior I was told some dealers offered for the landy.. Keep it close to make a stencil/template from it... I have an early top that has a roof lining only in the top rear of the cab but includes a light (mounted to board and so self supporting.)

I havent seen any other trim inside the cabin at all before.

Deluxe trim was, from memory, standard on early 107s, and optional on other cab Series 1s. But trim was also often added by dealers, and sometimes owners (I did to my Series 1 in 1963), and some of these efforts are good enough to be confused with factory trim.

John

3/8 sockets are your friend with stubborn nuts/bolts, as they help support the offender. You'll be struggling with just spanners..

And remember the sizes will be Whitworth!

John

Originally Posted by Sitec

3/8 sockets are your friend with stubborn nuts/bolts, as they help support the offender. You'll be struggling with just spanners..

If only it were that simple, where these bolts are, I can't get a socket on either side thanks to surrounding bits of Land Rover. Still, there'll be others.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

And remember the sizes will be Whitworth!

John

I know, I've got SAE and Metric
The metric's sort of fit sometimes.

I've got some Whitworth spanners amongst my collection of odd tools which is nice... and I'm hoping Dad has some more. I've also got a set of odd sockets somewhere which I'm pretty sure haven't fit much in any of my previous cars so maybe that's Whitworth.

Besides, when was buying tools something to fear

I went digging through my old tool box and found a set of Whitworth sockets
Sadly, they don't have a ratchet, just a bent handle that looks like a 3/8 allen key, so I'll have to get an allen key socket of that size for my normal socket set.
Anyways, that allowed me to get a good grip on one end of things and spanners and tools of nut destruction did the other end.

Note, that homebrew penetrating oil seems to have worked because although it was still hard work, all three bolts, which had been more or less solid a couple of days ago, came off with only minimal swearing though great effort.

Crackers Top Tip: Do not let family, doctors or other wowsers talk you into losing weight. You need that bulk as it allows you to put more force onto the end of a spanner attempting to drive a recalcitrant bolt.

Once the bolts were out, a rubber strip held the roof to the back of the cab - this needed to be removed and having hardened and stuck to things, it got torn off (pieces saved so I know how much more to get). Essentially, it's E shaped with the central bar going between the roof and the back, with the bars either end clipping over the panel.

From there, the roof simply lifted off and is temporarily living in the ute tray.



Four nuts later, the back of the cabin was ready to lift off. Again, that homebrew penetrating oil seemed to do the trick because there was a lot of that ornamental brown stuff working to combine nuts and bolts into one unit.



Having succeeded with stuff, I escaped before I broke something.

Circumstances have kept me out of the shed (where have I heard that before? ) but I was able to get in there today.

The plan was to get the ute tray off, but some silly bugga had stored a cabin roof and cabin back in it. So, after some creative thought, a modicum of intemperate language and selective application of a rubber mallet (oooooooo, donca love rubber ), the two cabin panels are now stored on 4x2s in the ceiling of the shed.

Then it was time to pull the ute tray. I climbed underneath. I saw nuts... so I squirted them with WD40. There were more at the back of the tray, so I got to them too... and on the driver's side, they're going to be a real &^%$ because the cross-member is bent and hiding the nuts themselves.

At the front though, while I can see the bolt heads under the vehicle, the nuts are in the gap between the tray and seat box - this is assuming I'm looking at the right bolts of course, I'm about to fire up my pdf manual and see if I can work out what I need to undo.

BUT, am I right in assuming that I have to remove the seat box before I can remove the tray?