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Thread: The restoration of Wombat

  1. #181
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    And add a bit of heat via Oxy/acetylene or something similar, use your head think about it as you go along, a good hammer & dolly would help as well, keep applying tension throughout the process, cheers Dennis

  2. #182
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    why does the bulkhead have to come off? It doesn't look too bad from the last couple of pics. I thought once off , mega issues trying to get it back on nice and straight again. I'm not offering this pearl from any kind of position near to I know what I'm talking about , just what I've heard from other people.
    cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  3. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dinty View Post
    And add a bit of heat via Oxy/acetylene or something similar, use your head think about it as you go along, a good hammer & dolly would help as well, keep applying tension throughout the process, cheers Dennis
    I don't have oxy or anything like it Dennis, this'll be a bash'n hope job. Somewhere along the line, I have to decide how good I want the back end to be. Factory fresh is outside both my budget and my skill set but sound is achievable.

  4. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark61 View Post
    why does the bulkhead have to come off? It doesn't look too bad from the last couple of pics. I thought once off , mega issues trying to get it back on nice and straight again. I'm not offering this pearl from any kind of position near to I know what I'm talking about , just what I've heard from other people.
    cheers,
    D
    Good point on alignment D.

    I have to have a closer look at how good she is. That corner is pretty rough and bent but I'm not so sure about the rest of it - patchy paint, surface rust and not having had a thoughtful all mean that I'm probably not really sure what I've got overall.

    I could leave it as is and paint a small sign on it: The farmer did it

    At the end of the job, it doesn't HAVE to be perfect, just not horrible and preferably a pretty darned good (my primary aim).

    Her tail end is in a dark corner of the shed, pushed up against a bench so I'll have to wait till the weekend to push her forward and have a good look.

  5. #185
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    I'm in the not perfect but not horrible camp as well. You're doing well.


    cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  6. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark61 View Post
    I'm in the not perfect but not horrible camp as well. You're doing well.


    cheers,
    D
    I don't know who to feel sorry for, me agreeing with you or you agreeing with me

    Seriously, I've a lot of respect for those that desire to and actually can do it properly. Don't let my flippant nature suggest otherwise.

  7. #187
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark61 View Post
    why does the bulkhead have to come off? It doesn't look too bad from the last couple of pics. I thought once off , mega issues trying to get it back on nice and straight again. I'm not offering this pearl from any kind of position near to I know what I'm talking about , just what I've heard from other people.
    cheers,
    D
    If you are only removing and installing the same bulkhead with the same spacers, then it will go back in the same position. The problems start when you replace the original bulkhead with a different unit. They, and the spacers are made to fit individual chassis, and each one is slightly different, which is what causes the dramas.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  8. #188
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    I'm not far off pulling the motor. I need to finish getting the pedals and associated systems out so I can remove the firewall and heavens knows how long that'll take. I'm also messing about with that mangled rear of the chassis (just to keep me amused) so it's probably not going to happen this weekend BUT, it's not far away... I hope.

    I'll be removing the gearbox and transfer case first and assume I'll need some straps to lift them seeing I've got the crane (oh poo, I'll have to find somewhere to store them).
    Also, the engine head is not installed nor are there any studs in the block so I don't have the usual engine lift points.

    What do I need to lift the transfer case/gearbox/engine? I was thinking along the lines of some wide straps, probably car tie-downs with the ratchet removed - tie-downs so I can use them if I ever need to trailer the vehicle.

    Any thoughts?
    Specifically, if straps are the way to go, any thoughts on what to get and where to place them?

    And yes, I know I'm panicking before hand. It's a fine family tradition that keeps us amused late at night when it's too cold to go out into the shed

  9. #189
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    You can use a length of chain and attach it to a stud or bolt on the engine.
    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    ........

    Maybe we're expecting too much out of what really is a smallish motor allready pushing 2 tonnes. Just because it's a v8 doesn't mean it's powerfull.

    One answer REV IT BABY REV IT!!!

  10. #190
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    Had a really good go at sorting out the rear cross member using Sitec's suggestion. No luck

    Heat would be the go but I don't have an oxy set up. I do have a little butane torch but it's small beer and besides, the canister is empty and they're hard to get because people buy them to make their ice (the drug sort of ice - that's what the hardware bloke told me anyway).

    I think my Dad's got a torch for his propane bottles. Is that likely to give enough heat to be useful in the long term?

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