Thread: The restoration of Wombat

The problem with galvanising bolts is that because of the added thickness of zinc, you have to either run a dies over the thread to remove the galvanising (and a tap through the nuts) unless you start with threads cut specially deep to allow for this (and not very satisfactory for fine threads). However, it would still be worthwhile if you want to do this, as galvanising does protect the steel for a short distance from the edge of the galvanising, and certainly for appearance it may be worthwhile. But it would be a fair bit of labour if you consider doing all the body bolts.

As I think is mentioned earlier in this thread, the original bolts were Sherardised, or dry galvanised, where they are packed in zinc powder and held just below the melting point of zinc for several hours.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

dry galvanised, where they are packed in zinc powder and held just below the melting point of zinc for several hours.

John

Hello John,

Gee those people who held the bolts just below melting point for several hours must have gotten very sore fingers

Sorry it has been one of those type of days
The day I had anticipated and tasks I had lined up for today somehow fell by the wayside. They were subsumed by mindless drivel called "official paperwork".

Kind Regards
Lionel

So the consensus seems to be to go to a good fastener place and buy Zinc coated, UNF.

My thought was to duck down to Universal Fasteners on South Road at Edwardstown tomorrow morning... but it appears that not only did they change their name (got bought out again probably), but they've been closed down as well. So any suggestions for the south of Adelaide would be appreciated. Glad I've got time before I need anything.

Those big pins for the firewall, the two brutes that hold it to the chassis, are they something you can get off the shelf or am I better off buying from a specialist Landy shop?
I noticed in someone else's thread that the suspension hangers have a weird bolt too (stepped thread). Again, are they something I need to go to a specialist for?

Look at me, and I'm still finding things to pull off the chassis before I can begin stripping it (by hand) and painting it

The 'shackle bolts are stepped and the thread is BSF, the tie bolts that hold the B/head to chassis is 1/2" diameter bolt I would just buy a grade 5 Hi-tensile bolt of the correct length, ? are your shackle bolts worn out? cheers Dennis

Originally Posted by Dinty

The 'shackle bolts are stepped and the thread is BSF, the tie bolts that hold the B/head to chassis is 1/2" diameter bolt I would just buy a grade 5 Hi-tensile bolt of the correct length, ? are your shackle bolts worn out? cheers Dennis

I haven't pulled the shackle bolts out yet. The nuts broke free easily enough but with the apparent state of the bushes, I wouldn't be surprised to see wear.
Good thing about the b/head bolts, means I can get them easily.

Well, wasn't that fun

Trying to get off the steering rod that goes from the relay unit (that bit that goes through the chassis) across to the passenger side of the vehicle. Said steering rod has a ball joint at each end, held in with a castellated nut and split pin. Simple job. Remove the split pin. Undo nut. Knock out ball joint.

Hah!

And no, I didn't have trouble getting the ball joints free so nyah

The split pins were well and truly rusted in place and anyone who has tried to remove a rusted split pin will tell you they are truly an item that earned some junior devil an achievement award.

Got the one under the relay unit off with only intemperate language and barked knuckles.

Of course, that one is out in the open. The other one is buried among the suspension and steering bits on the passenger side. Easy enough to straighten out but do you reckon I could get the sod to move? Of course not. Eventually, I'd broken bits off it such that little if anything protruded from the bolt. "I wonder if I can undo the bolt" I thought and lo, once I'd worked out that I needed an SAE socket not a Whitworth, the nut did move... eventually - both this and the other nut needed a dose of heat and WD40, but loosen they did.

And so I undid both nuts up to the top of the bolt.

Now I've had experience with ball joints before and know how recalcitrant they can be. I also know that hammering away on the top of a bolt can burr it over so a nut won't go over it. Clearly not awake to the fact that I'll never reuse these ball joints (ie, want to put a nut back on them), I left the nuts at the top of the bolt and gave them some good, sharp raps with a hammer.
Nothing happened.
No problem. A bit of heat later, some more whacks and ping, both ball joints came free.

High levels of satisfaction at this point.

Then I tried to undo the nuts.

Because the ball joints were now free, and being ball joints (ie, meant to swivel), rather than the nuts coming off, the whole ball joint just rotated in its housing

Going to the ball joint under the relay unit first, I simply did that one up really tight (to bed in the ball joint), then undid it again. Simple and a few minutes later, I had the thing free.

Now the passenger side. Now remember what I said about the remains of that split pin still being in there. Well, although I could undo the nut when the ball joint was jammed in its housing, the whole unit simply turned now. I could neither remove it further or do it back up. Heat made no difference. Profanity merely blistered the paint on the fence and led the dog to skulk away worried in case he was the one in trouble. I got a jack under the ball joint and lifted it enough to get the weight of that wheel and its assembly (remember, no engine, just bare chassis and suspension) on the ball joint. This sort allowed it to grip occasionally but not sufficient to do the job.

So this is what I'm stuck with.



That nut ain't going nowhere.

Of course, all this could have been avoided by simply removing the nut and THEN breaking free the ball joint. It was coming and showed no signs of not coming all the way off.

I won't be reusing the ball joint so have no problems with just cutting the thing off, but in the interests of solving problems by rat cunning rather than brute force, does anyone have any non-destructive suggestions for how to get it off? Otherwise, the angle grinder awaits.

While mucking about with the suspension, I had a quick look at the swivel joints (is that what you call them?)

I know they're supposed to be a nice, chrome dome and pitting is not good.

Are these going to cause me trouble?

Originally Posted by crackers

While mucking about with the suspension, I had a quick look at the swivel joints (is that what you call them?)

I know they're supposed to be a nice, chrome dome and pitting is not good.

Are these going to cause me trouble?

nasty.


I've seen new kits for about GBP90.00 ea for 2/2a and 3 - but not for 1's. Hopefully you can use a later one - or someone else will be able to point you in the right direction. I don't think that's salvageable.
cheers,
D