Some areas of the chassis and body will be replaced with the new part such as driver and passenger doors, rear fender, back trunk opener, back chassis, from bumper.
...
Some areas of the chassis and body will be replaced with the new part such as driver and passenger doors, rear fender, back trunk opener, back chassis, from bumper.
I am planning to spray the car in Deep Bronze Green. However I have seen many variety shades of Green. I let the paint shop to do a sample of the Deep Bronze Green (0428 From the original series 1 book) Anyway I'd love to have the photo with correct green as a references, so I can compare with my sample paint. From internet once I search for "Land Rover Deep Bronze Green" the resulf pop up with many shade of green, So I don't know which one I should make it as references. If you guys have a photo of the S1 with correct green, please kindly help by posting that on this thread
Thank you very much
Problem is a photo will not give a true colour, it depends on the camera, the lighting at the time the photo was taken and the monitor you view it on.
Maybe if someone has had some Deep Bronze Green mixed recently (and they were happy with the result) they could post the formula ?
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
Hi,
Just be a little careful, civilian vehicles where Bronze green and military ones where Deep bronze green, there is a difference
As Grommit says photos are difficult to match, do you have a section not blue, good paint stores can computer scan and match, do you have them there?
Regards
Thank you Scott and Gromit,
Latest update, After I gave the number 428 to my regular paint shop, He could not find the formula for the paint. I think I have to try a different paint shop.
Scott, thank you again for the new knowledge about the different between Civilian and military issue.
Regards,
I seem to remember this being discussed recently with the comment that the old pigments and recipes weren't available now. Your best bet (and most accurate) is to take a chip of paint or painted part to your paint shop and get it matched - that shop will be able to keep a record of what their own recipe and replicate it later if needed.
Often a good place to find some original paint is under the cover for the hole for the LHD handbrake, but there are likely to be other similar spots where it has not been repainted and the original is unfaded.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Besides the body paint formula, I have come up with another concern. At first I decided to galvanize the chassis and leave the chassis's color like that. However if I changed my mind to not have the chassis galvanized. So my concern is what should be the correct chassis color for 1955 S1. Original Land Rover mentioned as below
"Chassis frames on 1954 model 86"and107" are painted to match the bodies, green on 86" and blue on 107". But 1955 and later basic vehicle. Both 86"and107" have their chassis finished more conventionally in black"
From the sentence above, I would certainly have the chassis finished in black. But once I take a closely look at the chassis again, I spot a green color painted on the chassis as you can see from the attached.
So what do you guys think?&
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