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Thread: LANDY'S LAST RESTORATION BY ME

  1. #121
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    I haven't had much luck on the email front either, although when I ordered pistons they were at my door in two days so can't fault the service there. Although that doesn't help you identify the wheel cylinder manufacturer...

  2. #122
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    Sep 2012
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    Westlake ,brisbane
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    20170425_112606.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F. View Post
    I've got some old cast iron wheel brake cylinders. How do I recognise a R/h rear for an 80"? There are no cast part numbers as on alloy ones. There is only a cast ' 1" '. .W.
    The difference is with the R/H cylinder the brake pipe goese into the L/H side. This photo is taken looking down. I didn't realise there was a difference untill after I refittedvthe cylinders & new brake pipes & I have actually fitted them in the wrong sides , so it doesn't matter which side I get except I will need to re do the brake pipe.

  3. #123
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    Drawing from workshop manual shows the pipe going into front side (R/H) of the L/H wheel cylinder, as mine goese in the rear I have the cylinder fitted in the wrong side.20170425_130253.jpg

  4. #124
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    Jul 2009
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    S.E.Qld
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    The one I've got, and you could have ,according to the parts catalogue ,belongs to the left rear wheel ( pipe at the front). It's a 1" cylinder ,it would need honing or sleeving. All the threads appear to be ok. If you're interested PM me your postal address and I will post it tomorrow. .W.

  5. #125
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    Sep 2012
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    PM sent

  6. #126
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    Thanks for that BSF I will have a SS sleve fitted when it arrives.

  7. #127
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    Sep 2012
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    My wife gave me some free time today, so when I returned home from having treatment on my hands I got stuck into the final prep on the front guards ready for primer & top coat.IMAG1098.jpgIMAG1092.jpg
    I have sprayed the under side with stone guard .
    IMAG1091.jpg

  8. #128
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    Sep 2012
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    IMAG1096.jpgI then turned my attention to the L/H door that appears to have bubbles under the paint . I removed the capping & all the reverts securing the seals & started hand sanding the paint off. This door was repaired at a panel shop the last time , it had some stresses in it. I noticed there were some cracks in the filler they had used so using a paint scraper proceeded to remove the flaking filler , it pealed off in sheets . & had not stuck to the Aluminum . Were the filler came off easy there are all these dark spots which are sticky & appear to be filler epoxy , were it had stuck there are none of these sticky spots & I had to use a flapper disc to remove the filler. My guess is they had not mixed the filler correct way back then. the filler was around 1/16" all over the door & i have never been real happy they had filled the spot weld marks . This panel shop was a classic car restoration shop & came highly recommended. The last photo is how I held the alum reverts in last time , they were some reverts I had bought at a swap meet & were too long & had gone hard so would not squash . So I used speed nuts & they have worked well . I had to use a wood chisel to cut the heads off because I could not get them out. IMAG1093.jpgIMAG1095.jpgIMAG1094.jpg Looks like i have a lot of work getting this door rite , there are a lot of hammer marks in it were they tried to get the stress out of it. I have to work out how to get the epoxy off the aluminum, I have tried the thinners I am ysing with my top coat but didn' t take it off . will try turps & grease & wax remover see if that works.

  9. #129
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    Late yesterday I picked up the S/H wheel cylinder that BSF sent me from the Brake Co , SS sleeve , new pistons , spring & cup ex panders , bleeder, cups & boots , cost was $110 . hope to get it fitted & brakes bled this afternoon.IMAG1102.jpg IMAG1102.jpg Thanks again BFS.

  10. #130
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    Sep 2012
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    A little more done this afternoon . I refitted the L/H rear wheel cylinder & redirected the brake pipe. I did not bleed the brakes as my brother was not available to give me a hand. ( gone racing at historic racing Morgan Park)
    decided I was sick of waiting for the company who supplied my wiring harness to supply the harness for the steering column so I found some 5 core trailer wire & used it instead. The wires are not going to be correct as per the wiring diagram but were the main harness has green with a red trace I have used red, green with white trace I used white & so on .IMAG1105.jpgIMAG1106.jpgIMAG1107.jpg

    I am also running a earth wire instead of using the brass tube as an earth .

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