As mentioned in previous thread I run the 3/8" die & tap on the T piece
20180707_144829.jpg20180707_145041.jpg I run into a problem trying to get the hole on the side of the T piece to finish facing away from the engine block & starter motor so I could screw the barb for the oil line to the gauge. I tried fitting extra copper washers so when the T piece was screwed in it would lock in the correct position . The problem I run into was because these fittings have parallel thread the oil would leak between the washers under pressure & I was worried if I used a thread sealer on the thread the oil light switch would not earth. So I spent the whole morning today fitting & removing all the fittings , In the end I resorted to thread sealer removed all the copper washers & all worked out OK .
20180708_121635.jpg I also removed the cover plate from the dash that covers the hole were the steering column comes through on L/H drive vehicles & using a hole saw drilled to fit the gauge then re riveted the cover back in place & fitted the gauge.
20180708_121757.jpg This gauge looks a little untidy but I am getting the other one I have that is in better condition fitted with a new capillary tube so the temp gauge will work so it should look better. Photo shows I have over 30PSI so am happy with that.
I also removed the plug in the thermostat housing so I can get an adaptor to take the capillary tube . So I am off to Otto's next week to have the gauge repaired. Also think I need to touch up the paint on the rivets.
I have Land Rover back

after two days leaning over the guard so off to lay on my back & watch V8's now so Landy can wait until tomorrow.

I also need to work out some sort of light for the gauge the light has to shine through the slots around the body of the gauge & there is no hole in the back to plug a socket in . Will have a look on Ebay for a suitable LED light . I fitted LED bulbs in all my dash lights including the oil light which now is quite clear to see during the day were as before it wasn't.

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