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Thread: LANDY'S LAST RESTORATION BY ME

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    I am thinking of taking the fuel gauge to Otto's instruments to have it cleaned & the face refreshed .
    When installed in a vehicle , the gauge and the sender unit do require a good earth, I run a separate earth return wire from the sender unit ( use one of the mounting screws ) to the gauge itself ( use the knurled nut on the gauge holder bracket ).

  2. #92
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    I have a new wiring harness I am instaling & yes I will have an earth on each of the gauges the same as I had before. When I did the restoration 29 years ago I made my own harness which I had earth wires going to every thing . I am replacing it as it doese not look as neet as the Vintage Wiring Harness do.

  3. #93
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    I dont know were my posts from January 13 untill yesterday have gone. & cant find other peoples posts that I have been following. Also cant find anywere to click to view posts I have following.

  4. #94
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    There have been serious issues with the website due to hardware failure. See the last post on A reminder if i may

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #95
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    Well not a lot got done today, I did manage to bolt the rear PTO back in place & tighten some of the bolts I had put in finger tight.IMAG0864.jpgIMAG0865.jpgIMAG0866.jpg

  6. #96
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    I also fitted the two brackets that the accelerator springs attach to but because I never had my phone with me at the time I didn't take a photo of were they go . Can anyone tell me if I have put them in the correct places . I have put the long one to the bottom accelerator bearing & the small one to the top accelerator bearing.IMAG0867.jpgIMAG0868.jpg

  7. #97
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    Today I painted a few more bits gloss black. 1st was the rear tail shaft then the hand brake leaver these had already been etch primed .. I then sanded back the repairs I did on the steering wheel the other day , masked the chrome bars & gave a coat of etch primer.
    Then it was off to the workshop to see if I could get the top of the steering column off so I can fit the column to bulk head grommet. T removed the lock nut & bearing nut from the top of the inner column & removed the balls , I was now able to unscrew the inner shaft from the large nut in the steering box & remove the shaft. I thought the 4 dowels may have been screwed in but no such luck. I then drilled the pins out going up one size at a time until I had all 4 out. I now tried to knock the top off the outer column but it would not budge. It was time to get the heat out & I heated the top until it was glowing red , it still wouldn't budge. I thought may be if I heat the boss & freeze the column tube it may let go. Guess what the can of Freeze was almost empty. I have to go down near were I buy the freeze tomorrow so will have another go tomorrow.
    By the time I got home the etch primer had dried enough to give the steering wheel a coat of gloss black enamel with added hardener. I also unbolted the battery tray & gave i a coat of primer ready to paint gloss black when I give the steering wheel a second coat in a couple of days once it has dried properlyIMAG0880.jpgIMAG0881.jpgIMAG0885.jpgIMAG0879.jpgIMAG0875.jpg.
    .

  8. #98
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    IMAG0876.jpgIMAG0877.jpgIMAG0878.jpg
    Some more photo's of the steering column. Once I get this boss off I will either tap threads into the boss & fit some long grub screws or make up new pins & drive them in.

    QUESTION Has any one tried to remove the top boss on a 80" steering column. if so how did you go about it ?

  9. #99
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    IMAG0926.jpgIMAG0927.jpgIMAG0928.jpgIMAG0929.jpgI


    I gave up on the idea of getting the top boss off the steering column. I decided because I had bought two of the grommets i would split one , then make up a template of the gap between the ends & cut a wedge out of the other grommet. I then wrapped glad wrap around the column & glued the wedge into the split grommet. Looks like it is going to work.

  10. #100
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    IMAG0930.jpgIMAG0931.jpgIMAG0932.jpgI started cleaning the contacts on the horn button & Dip switch , & was going to replace the wiring that runs up the centre tube but when I had a look in the box with the new wiring harness they had not supplied that part of the harness. So off to the auto electrician to buy the correct colour wires so I could make up a harness. There gone , so I went to three more in the area that I knew of, all closed up shop. That's the problem living in Brisbane there one day gone the next.
    I thought about using trailer wire but then the colours are not going to be correct. I rang the company who supplied the harness & they said that they don't usually supply that part of the harness. When I first inquired about the harness I had asked if it came with he harness & was told it did . So they are going to make one up & send it to me. I have cleaned the contacts & coated them with Vaseline to stop corrosion. I found some small grommets at the auto shop that will work as insulators & it is all ready to go once the harness turns up.IMAG0921.jpg I also fitted the rear prop shaft after running a die nut down the thread.

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