Yes, you need to see what is fitted. The only critical bit is the amount of thread on the bit that screws into the tube. Up to early Series 3 this was threaded leaving a shoulder, and the unthreaded bit of the tube clamps on this. Later Series 3 on they were threaded all the way.
However, you need to check what you have. The tie rod ends must match the tubes, and these may have changed over the last fifty or sixty years!
The rest of the differences are pretty immaterial. The thread on the tapered bit that fits the arm may be metric, UNF, Whitworth or BSF, as long as the nut matches, there is only aesthetics to worry about. The originals had castellated nuts and split pins, most today seem to have various types of self locking nuts.
Then you can get permanently lubricated ones like the originals, or greasable ones. Either will work. Arguments both ways for longevity.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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