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Thread: solex 32PBI leak

  1. #1
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    solex 32PBI leak

    I put a diaphragm kit thru the old carbie a few years ago and have recently noticed fuel leaking thru the carbie body where the spindle comes out. I'm guessing that I have wear on either the spindle, body, or both.
    I might chase down a new spindle, but if the wear is in the body is there much I can do to fix this?
    also could do with a new emulsion tube while I'm at it.
    any good tips on suppliers?
    Last edited by Mustlust; 21st May 2017 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Spelling error
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
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  2. #2
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    leak

    It depends on when its leaking. After you turn off the engine, there often can be a dribble coming from the throttle shaft if you pump the accelerator a bit. This is normal.

    If the leak is happening when the engine is running, then there is a problem.

    The worn throttle shaft effects the idle rpm's ( higher vacuum in the inlet manifold), they say it has little effect on higher revs

  3. #3
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    You can get the body re-bushed. Carby specialists can do it.
    The genuine Solex kit I got from the UK (Dingocroft or Gower and Lee can't remember) came with a new throttle shaft but most my wear was the the carby itself so I had a fitter and machinist mate rebush it for me.

    Like series1buff says if its leaking out with the engine running its a problem, most likely flooding in my opinion so the float and needle and seat need checking.

    Paul

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the reply gentlemen.
    i noted that it only leaks when the engine is not running but the ignition is on and the pump is loading pressure into the carb. It leaks at the spindle seal, so I'm assuming the carb draws the fuel when running, but the pressure is too much when off. Should the pump sense pressure and switch off?

    seeing that it doesn't leak when running I guess it's ok for the time being as long as I don't sit there too long before starting. It's a little bit of a worry with all that fuel (drops not buckets) leaking onto the engine.
    I emailed Gower and lee and they have quote 200 pounds for a refurb of the unit, plus freight. Probably worth the investment one day, but until funds are spare I will plod along.
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  5. #5
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    Unless you are going for the a super high end all original rebuild, then you might want to consider replacing the carb, rather than repairing it. Series One Shop sells a brand new repo carb for $299 , which is the way I went. My sprinkles were badly worm and leaking, and from past experience, once the body is worn, its messy and costly to try to repair. Far easier and often cheaper in the long run to replace it. My repo unit from Series One Shop, worked perfectly out of the box and I am confident that I wont have any no trouble with it in the near future.

    good luck,
    Jeff in sunny Perth
    1953 Series 1 80"
    1963 Mercedes 190SL

  6. #6
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    solex

    I bought one of those Solex copy PBIC carbies, made in India . It played up , the accelerator pump didn't work at all.

    I ended up rebuilding an original, I had a big issue I could not fix, it drove me nuts running rich. I found the fix - I replaced the fuel pump and the problem went away !!! too much fuel pressure

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    As suggested, it sounds like you have an issue with excess fuel pressure. This carburettor will not tolerate high fuel pressure (probably originally designed for a gravity feed vacuum tank!). This will be exacerbated if you have an aftermarket fuel pump not designed for the job.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Thanks John,
    I have the original fuel pump and it ticks like a bomb as it builds pressure. I read in an earlier post that it should build 60 cms of pressure, so I may have to test this. I understand this to mean 60 cms of vertical pressure in a hose coming from the pump.
    I have also read that these old pumps are problematic and usually respond well to a rebuild with a new kit through it.
    Mustlust

    1950 Series 1 80in lights behind grill
    1950 Series 1 80in rolling chassis looking for a body
    1956 Series 1 86in
    1956 Series 1 107
    1957 Series 1 88in
    1967 Mustang coupe 347 stroker
    2011 Discovery 4 3.0
    2009 110 utility 2.4tdci

  9. #9
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    It is a long time since I have dealt with one, but I seem to remember that the pressure delivery is controlled by the spring and how far it is compressed by the active stroke. It may be incorrectly adjusted, or may be a pump designed for a different application whose only difference is a stronger spring.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
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    Back in the late 60's early 70's I worked as a mechanic with a BMC ,Jag , Rover dealership & when the work shop was quite we would overhaul SU pumps , Su carbys , water pumps & reline brake shoes as exchange units.

    It is a little hard to explain how to adjust the SU fuel pump but I will give it a go.
    1 - you need to remove the Bakelite cap & the screws around the base & carefully remove the base.
    2 - do not remove the rollers that locate the diaphragm . press the diaphragm up & you will seethe points toggle over. screw the diaphragm clockwise until the points just won't toggle , screw anti clockwise a little to were the points just toggle .
    3 - now screw the diaphragm back anti clockwise one less hole than there are around the base of the pump.

    This will give you the correct adjustment for the diaphragm. Back then we had a test bed for testing the pumps & depending on weather it was a low or high pressure pump how far it would pump the fluid up the delivery tube. Then we would close off the tap on the delivery side & time how many times it would pump to test if the valves were leaking. If it didn't deliver the required amount of fluid we adjusted the diaphragm one hole either way depending on weather we needed to increase or decrease the flow.

    Hope that is of some help.

    Problem with most old SU pumps that won't work is the insulation in the sealed coils has dried out & is braking down causing them to short out internally. This can happen due to the diaphragm going hard & once you connect power to the pump they can't move the diaphragm thus burning out the pump.

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