Master
Gentlemen,
I have a wonderful 1953 Series 1 SWB, but is it just me or is the Series 1 a bugger to set the timing on?
The inspection opening in the bell housing is way down low in the engine bay. and I know that I am only a short arse, but getting down there with a timing light and actually seeing the timing marks seems really difficult. Then you need to climb back out again to make any fine adjustment to the distributor angle, then deep dive down into the engine again to check. We don't have the luxury of timing marks on the crank pulley, so I am hoping there are those who are well used to the Series 1 who can help with any little trips or tricks that may make this job a little easier and a little more accurate.
Many thanks in advance
Jeff
Master
SupporterI set my timing on the bell housing by just turning the engine over with the crank w cilender 1 tdc then rotate the dizzy till with the rotor pointing at no 1 lead the lobe of the Dizzy is just leading turn the key then fiddle lol
I do paint a timing mark on the front but mostly so I can watch as I adjust the vacume advance
2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch
Master
SupporterI find them a right pain to but to many here it's a doddle... I'm shure they will pipe in
There's a few good threads on it in here I think one by scallops and another interesting one on tuning using a vacuum guage if you have access to one
2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch
Master
This is one of those how long is a piece of string questions !
It's a good idea to stick with one type of fuel octane rating, if you fill up with 92 do the tuning, then go to 98 , this will bugger up your fine timing ..maybe .
The little thumb wheel on the vac advance , the marks are 2 degrees so I have read on another forum.
Where do you plug in a vacuum gauge ? I would love to know that one . Drill and tap the inlet manifold ?
Listen for pinging under load, you need to retard the timing a little .
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