Tiny bit excited

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Originally Posted by shamirj

1. does this round (in green) get bolted up to the front of the shoes or behind, mine was both bolted and fitted from the rear? incl bolts.

2. green pictured lower spring points to where it should be sprung from ? correct or not? again on mine was fitted on the front of shoes not from behind.

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That is LR snail adjuster it will sit against the pin on the shoe As you turn it it will push the shoe out against the brake drum .

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

I have heard that the fix you are referring to was actually special mud excluders (listed in an optional equipment brochure I have) to keep Snowy Mountain mud containing crushed garnets from the tunnelling out of the brakes. I am uncertain whether the different early brakes were involved or whether this was a separate fix.

Found a reference to the early braking system (in John Smith's book). This was Girling "Hydrastatic", and a major reason for the change was poor brake life for some users. Smith does not mention which users, but I think there is a good chance that this was SMHEA. The change was made in 1949. What is seen in the pictures above is not the Hydrastatic system, which does not have any adjusters, but could be a modification of this - the Hydrastatic brakes rely on a special brake lining with a spring loaded button near the leading end of the leading shoe, and it is possible that this is a modification to allow the backing plate from this system to be used with standard shoes. (A pull off spring would have to be added)

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I found these drawings in my early 80" workshop manual , the 1st is Hydrostatic type with single ended cylinder Attachment 159214 there appears to be some sort of spring damper in the middle of the L/H shoe. It states at the side that E is a Pressure Plunger.
The second is Hydrolic Type with double ended cylinder
Attachment 159215
I have never seen a 1948 LR brakes so I am guessing the 1st type were fitted to the 48's

Joe, DON'T you pay any attention to these they may confuse the issue just trying to clear up the discussion about early brakes.
Wayne

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

I found these drawings in my early 80" workshop manual , the 1st is Hydrostatic type with single ended cylinder Attachment 159214 there appears to be some sort of spring damper in the middle of the L/H shoe. It states at the side that E is a Pressure Plunger.
The second is Hydrolic Type with double ended cylinder
Attachment 159215
I have never seen a 1948 LR brakes so I am guessing the 1st type were fitted to the 48's

Joe, DON'T you pay any attention to these they may confuse the issue just trying to clear up the discussion about early brakes.
Wayne

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Yes, the idea of "Hydrastatic" brakes was the master cylinder retained enough pressure to keep the shoes continuously in contact with the drums, with the spring loaded button stopping the leading shoe from being self energised into braking. I have seen details of them in Newnes Motor repair, but have never actually seen one on any vehicle, and have not seen even pictures of the Landrover application before this. As I said earlier, john Smith mentions them in his book as one of the early changes. The idea was to have no free pedal, and no need for adjustment.

It is easy to see how they would not stand a lot of grit.

got a little done this weekend but not much sadly.

noticed a knocking when i put the steering box back together with new parts, my suspicion was the ball bearings had fallen out which they had. to make this worse, i lost two of my smaller ball bearings and tore the main gasket, so a new kit is now needed.

have to admit did not know the master brake needed the inner spring washer out to install the push rod, so out came the brake master and fitted properly the push rod, which ended up being too long to fit (between the crossmember chassis rails), so cut couple of mms of the end to make fit. not sure why the new replacement one came with a smaller push rod which did not fit my application.

1. missing two balls, jeez these things are annoying to fit, why cant they be a normal ball bearing instead

2. scooped up all the ball bearings from the casing, could not go any further till new kit purchased

3. pulled the old master brake apart to see whats inside, pretty simple stuff really

4. black push rod came with my S1, so ended up using this one, the other did not fit really might be for 80' perhaps

5. finally got the master brake into position bolted up, even used an old brake spring to help pull the brake pedal back up, worked a treat. master cylinder is done except for the brake pipe line from the reservoir which i had shortened to fit.

Re - the rear brakes, looks like pass side has d/s backing plate fitted. snail on the wrong side, double checked the brake shoes thinking the shoes were wrong but looks to me its the backing plate. mmm...

1. not much achieved other then the brake reservoir fitted and connecting brake pipe to brake master from reservoir.

next step is to find time to stroll thru web pages to purchase additional parts, made another list of parts i need. ignition switches seem expensive and hard to find.

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Originally Posted by shamirj

1. not much achieved other then the brake reservoir fitted and connecting brake pipe to brake master from reservoir.

next step is to find time to stroll thru web pages to purchase additional parts, made another list of parts i need. ignition switches seem expensive and hard to find.

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Joe
I have sent you a PM about the ignition switch.
Wayne

Sorry Joe did not realise my PM box was full , have resent the message.
Wayne

While i am waiting to order some new parts thought to remove the front brakes and see what i have here. These are 11inch brakes, are these off a S2-2a, I'm guessing its for better braking why they modified from the std brakes.

1-2. front brakes exposed, needed to see what i have to ensure i order the correct brake upon ordering, thankfully i picked up from someone earlier on about them being 11inch brakes.

3. always one stubborn nut, had problems removing the stubborn cylinders as they were rusted but the two retaining nuts (on cylinders) were fine but the bleed or rubber hose connector needed to come undone before removing cyl from backing plate. anyway in the end got there

4. propshaft orientation, is this the correct orientation for fitment to the front diff or should i rotate 180 degrees, been hard sourcing a pic of the correct orientation. On the rear the shorter end (rubber boot end) is closest to the gearbox but on the front i think the boot end is closest to the diff.???

5. brake shoes and springs off, exposing the front backing plate. Would love a pic of where the springs are supposed to go when i purchase new set.

6. remains of the front d/s only brake bits n pieces. now off to order my next order of parts. for the brake what am i ordering, S2, S3, LWB, not sure what these 11inch brakes are off?

With that brake set up the spring will go between the shoes but should be on the back side of the shoes so they pull the shoes against the backing plate . I don't have a later W/S manual with that set up but will see what i can find. Did you get my P.M about the switch.
Wayne

4. Correct, but not critical. What is critical is to ensure the arrows on the splined bits were lined up.

6. 11" brakes will be off a lwb, and they look like the wider brakes fitted to six cylinder and V8 models. Easy check - the six cylinder brakes do not have the sloped or conical section between the hub mounting surface and the braking surface; the four cylinder brakes have a generally flat backing plate, where the six cylinder ones are dished to accommodate the wider shoes.

5. Confirm what brakes they are, and I should be able to find a picture.