Tiny bit excited

I have been playing around with the carby setting and now is idling a lot slower and more like a normal idle but its a little rough thinking the mixture is wrong or the distributor needs advancing or retarding which i have not touched since starting the beast. she is loud due to no exhaust system for now.

1-2. Looking for the specs for a radiator, on ebay they sell land rover holden radiators to suit 186 but not S1. Not a lot of room in here to fit a radiator since I have replaced the cut out front crossmember. plan to use elec fans, might have to cut the rad support panel to accommodate. do people use the LR or Holden radiator?

3. temp fitted the rad support panel to take some measurements of a suitable radiator

4. have another panel with a LR radiator - unsure of the condition but unlikely to fit, will try. This panel has a better base to bolt to chassis and three points whereas the one fitted has rusted out the base plate to secure to chassis. I do have a holden rad but its bent. so need to take some measurements and see which will fit better.

engine oil level had dropped due to new oil filter i guess so topped up the oil in the engine. would like to run her longer and try the gears but need the rad first.

Sorry I can't help you with the radiator , I have only ever had one 80" with a side plate Holden motor & I took that out & fitted a LR motor . I do remember it had not had the front X member cut & from what I remember the radiator supports wings on the front panel had been cut off , the panel had been moved forward flush with the front edge of the bonnet with the head lights moved to the guards. I think there was a radiator support frame made out of steel angle . I can't remember what radiator they had used , I have it in the back of my head it was a Holden but don't quote me on that. I am trying to remember back at least 30 years & don't have any photo's they got lost three computers ago . [bigsad]
Have a look at the posts in Holden powered Series LR' s you may find something in there .:eek2:

1 brake master rod cleaned up and painted (not shown) for installation

2 threads in chassis needed cleaning out with the bolts prior to fitting, and then finally fitted into position. I note the rod which pushes against the brake master is not attached to the master just housed inside the rubber dust cover of the brake master. Is this correct?

3 one of the brake lines attached into position, other brake line needs some more work

4 I'm sure there is a spring which pulls the pedal back when not in use, this black 'push rod' does it just sit against the brake master inside the boot?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shamirj

1 brake master rod cleaned up and painted (not shown) for installation

2 threads in chassis needed cleaning out with the bolts prior to fitting, and then finally fitted into position. I note the rod which pushes against the brake master is not attached to the master just housed inside the rubber dust cover of the brake master. Is this correct?

3 one of the brake lines attached into position, other brake line needs some more work

4 I'm sure there is a spring which pulls the pedal back when not in use, this black 'push rod' does it just sit against the brake master inside the boot?

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See attached diagram. There is a circlip (10) and washer, and a spring (19)

Was just going to put this same drawing up:thumbsup: Joe it is the short spring , the long spring pulls the brake light switch on.

1. put a new steering kit through the steering column, with all new ball bearings. not much to show but its a bit weird that the balls hold on with grease - do they not fall out when you turn the steering. BTW which type of oil do i fill up with for the steering box - can i use engine or gear oil to top up. it is moving freely for now till the rest is bolted up.

still pondering the radiator and support panel, the holden rad would be better and its thinner (less depth) compared to the LR rad. which is deeper and the top hose in the wrong position (centered) instead of pass side. still not enough room for either unless i cut the profile of the support panel to make fit.

loosely fitted tail shaft, might undo and see if i can start her up again and move thru the gears, have some doubts about the clutch working. the rotation on the shaft to dis/engage the clutch only moves 1/4 if that which seems to be too little to engage the clutch so might play around with that as well soon...

with regard to the brake master push rod, there is a inner circlip holding the brake master together, but do i need to undo this circlip to attach to the push rod or does the push rod simply sitting against the inner of the brake master? hard to describe but basically is the push rod connected to the inner of the brake master or just sitting there.

Pushrod should have a washer round it that is held into the cylinder by the circlip. So yes, it is captive.

Steering box is specified as EP90, but in fact it is not fussy as there are no very high pressure loads nor high speeds - engine oil will tend to leak out more easily though. Don't put grease in it, although semi-liquid grease would be OK. Grease will push away from the various sliding surfaces after a while.

1 top of the rear driver side brakes. old and needing replacement if i am to have any chance of brakes. is that brake adjuster above the top spring standard not seen it on other LR brakes before and when searching on the internet. they usually have just the spring to pull the two shoes together this one has this adjuster as well??? anyone put up a diagram of S1 brakes please.

2 bottom set up, took the photo so i knew how to assemble the new ones

3 rear of the backing plate, not sure but does the rear have two outlets or inlets for the brake line and which do i attach to. the middle one is the bleed valve.

4 all done new brakes fitted, all time consuming work but got there in the end (so i thought)

5 rear view again not sure where my brake line attaches to please

6 then realised my mistake, these two brake shoes are a little different and have a protrusion for the spring maybe ? so need to undo all again to refit one normal shoe with one of these.

prob spent 2hrs on the one brake wheel, but what a waste of time as i need to redo again. lesson learnt.
As i have said before, one step fwd, two backwards....

Some old cars had the rear brakes with one pipe. So line from master cylinder went to LHS rear and a pipe from there to RHS. Mainly they were American cars how had hydrolic brakes first. Not sure if LR had the same sort of brake set up.in early models.

Joe, to me it looks like someone has modified the rear brakes Attachment 159163 I have never seen them with that type of adjuster ( see arrow) Attachment 159164 the springs should be between the shoe & backing plate so they will pull the shows against the backing plate. Attachment 159165 the top spring should go between one of these pins & a pin on the backing plate & again between the shoe & BP Attachment 159167 as shown in this drawing. Attachment 159168 this one is the front brakes.
Attachment 159169 Brake line set up pipe goes from a T piece mounted on the diff housing out to each wheel cylinder there is a flexible hose between the pipe from the M/Cyl to the T piece.
The brake shoes are usually adjusted by large adjusting nuts on the back of the backing plate.
The adjuster between the shoes will work but if they have not cut slots in the backing plate to adjust it through than you will have to remove the drums every time you want to adjust them. With that type of adjuster the spring will go between the shoes & not from one shoe to the backing plate.

I have never seen a S1 set up this way so if I am wrong someone please correct me.