Printable View
Joe , As I said you have the points set with dist cam in correct position but it looks tome that the gap is too wide . Hard to tell just by a photo if they are too wide they may not be closing propely on the flat part of the cam . W hat gap have you set them at.
1 ok rocker cover off, read all posts and some internet searches and suggestions thank you all, No 6 rocking tappets, I am assuming the last piston closest to firewall is no 6.
2 i think this is the exhaust, from my internet searches
3 think this is the inlet, both flexible and can be opened up, both appear to be rocking in this position is this correct? when i turn on the crank obviously these go up and down, and we want them both up = rocking = closed = less tension on the springs to compress hence the rocking?
4 points supposed to be closed but look to be open in this shot
5 points open, don't have anything to measure the gap but did make them smaller
Could i have a dud distributor, thinking to move to an elec distributor which does away the points. apart from cost would i need to change anything else if i go this route? I cant give up now but its becoming annoying for something so simple. I will persevere till i find the solution. fuel definitely going to the carby as when i removed the pipe going to the carby had fuel pouring out.
might need to revisit using the test lamp to check points open and closed effectively but not sure how to wire up to check.
A cardboard business card is about 20 thou which is usually correct.Quote:
5 points open, don't have anything to measure the gap but did make them smaller
Regards PhilipA
Joe The points should be closed on the flat of the cam & the gap still looks way too wide it should be around 15 thou as said about the thickness of a business card.
I am not sure that you are getting the valves on the rock correct though hard to tell what you are doing with a screw driver between the rocker & valve . I just don't know how else I can explain it to you. It would be easy to show you if I was there . No 6 exhaust is the one closest to the firewall so from the fire wall they go Exhaust , Inlet , Inlet , Exhaust , Exhaust, Inlet, Inlet , Exhaust & so on to the front.
its the closest i have gotten to getting her to fire up, it started for 1sec but I believe i am not getting fuel to the carby then the battery was dying so back on the charge for now till a reattempt tomorrow. start generated no backfire even if it was brief so thinking the timing is spot on (for me anyway)
1 used a carboard and wedged between points so the gap should be close enough which it was now
2 closed though not completely though did work, i will re work this closed position again. stubborn things
3 throttle push down sometimes squirts fuel upwards which is when it wants to start but more depressing does not result in more fuel squirting hence my theory fuel starvation, shouldn't this throttle keep squirting fuel into the carby
4 throttle in up position, normal setting
5 undid fuel supply and had pressure in it, though when cranking as i watch the fuel go up to the pump it aint pumping as well as it was previously, my theory is perhaps when i fitted the new pump its blown crap into my new carby and blocked some passage off, crap from the older fuel pump.
will try to upload a video of it running once i get it fully charged and sort out this fuel error. checked No1 spark plug and getting spark now, so surely its now not a spark or timing issue. so excited cant wait for the re attempt. i may have to clean out the new carby, dont think its the new pump not seated properly though anything is possible.
Just realised i could get it started with my timing (hmmm hmmm - pardon the pun) with 30,000 views.
OK the easiest way to tell whether you have the timing at the correct no1 TDC is to put your thumb over no1 plug hole and put a white chalk mark at TDC on the crank pulley , have the dizzy cap off .
Then get someone to turn the starter . TAKE OUT ALL THE PLUGS.
Mark on the dizzy where no1 plug wire comes from with chalk or whatever and then see what the relationships are. You should feel pressure on your thumb as the crank pulley passes TDC and the rotor should be pointing at the no1 plug lead position.
Pretty easy, and the engine will start if you are within cooie of the correct timing.
Also check that you have the plug leads in the correct firing order.
Regards philipA
Attachment 158867 Next time you go to start it spray some Start You Basted down into the carby , then push the choke leaver in the direction of the arrow so the so the choke butterfly is 1/2 to 3/4 closed that should also open the throttle butterfly automatically for it to idle at a higher idle. It may not run with out the choke when it is cold. It dose sound like you are getting close. The other thing is you may need screw in the idle screw or adjust the mixture screw to get it to run properly , it being a reconditioned carby you don't know were these have been set. You do need to go & buy your self a Holden workshop manual to suit some thing from EH up to HQ , should be able to get one from a second hand book shop , flee market . The problem with looking stuff up on U tube is a lot of those guys skip steps , with a workshop manual it is written step by step & they also have a problem section .
Finally got the old girl to start first time in a long time in its history. revving way to high so will need a little tweak to bring down the revs but the sweet smell of fuel and the noise was simply music to my ears. thank you to all for all the suggestions and words of encouragement, deeply appreciated, still a long way off finishing but its one BIG step closer.
now would love to throw on an old radiator, lower the revs and check oil pressure somewhere on the block just to ensure the oil is flowing and all is ok internally.
:banana::banana::banana::arms::arms::arms: Sorry could not help it. If you have an oil pressure gauge , you take out the oil pressure switch & attach the gauge there ,
Attachment 158886 switch just above oil filter. This one is screwed into a T adaptor with the light switch straight out & electric oil pressure T'ing towards the back of the motor. Make sure you don't use plumbers tape on the threads it will stop the switches from earthing. They have tapered threads so should not need anything but if you feel you want to use something than something like Loctite 569 Hydraulic sealant or Loctite 5770 or what other brand your local auto accessory shop stocks.
Could not get your attachment to open though, :thumbsdown:
Here is another version in case people cannot open the other file attachment
