Printable View
As well as the WD40 you might also try CRC "Freeze and Release" ...give it a decent spray. It 'snap' freezes the parts and causes micro cracking in the rust and the lube seeps in by capillary action ...you may need a couple of goes to get it moving.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
PTFE is inert and doesn't dissolve in petrol.Quote:
Originally Posted by dirvine
Everything You Need To Know About PTFE Tapes | RS Australia
Shamirj,
I'm interested to hear where you got the master cylinder from.
It looks like a Series II cylinder that's had the 2-bolt flange machined off and then fitted with a 3-bolt flange. Just wondered how the flange is attached (screwed/welded ??).
Colin
update for today...
1. heated up the rod for the master brake, see heat gun, worked a treat and came undone. a win here
2. new and old bolt/rod clearly not the same size, so need to use the old one. not sure why the new one is a smaller diameter bolt. beginning to think some LR suppliers do not know the differences between the S1 ie 80 n 86 inch, this new bolt came with the master brake from the UK fit for S1
3. for reference sake, this old unit as found on my truck, yes looks like a fab brace for the older broken tabes to hold the master in position, not required now i have a brand new unit (this came from UK supplier)
4. this is how i check for spark, and i have none at all. earthing the spark plug from No 1 cylinder
5. clearly on TDC
6. spark plug leads in correct location according to timing, can you still have spark at the spark plug but your timing be out???
7-9. orientation of the rotor and coil contact
after setting the TDC, making sure the No1 cycl is at the top of its stroke, can the distributor sit really in any position as long as the rotor points to No1 cyl lead and then do up the rest of the spark plug leads? when we talk about moving the distributor its really to align the rotor with a cable lead? and then the coil contact needs to be open for spark to occur? Help please.
Im sure i am getting fuel to carby can smell it. fuel line is full of petrol, no fuel leaks at all teflon holding up, so its spark i am lacking now.
flange is bolted on, old unit came with car, new unit came from UK supplier.
Joe ,
I would be careful checking spark like that , I know the battery is maintenance free but it will still be vented , you could end up with an explosion bigger than the coil with acid going everywhere. You are better off earthing it to some were on the motor away from the battery & fuel.:firedevil:. If you still don't have spark check that the carbon is still in the centre in side the dist cap. Also try taking the coil wire out of the the Dist cap & holding it near an earth & flick the points open with the ignition on using a screw driver but make sure you are not touching the metal part of the screw driver or you will get a boot. Also see if there is any sparking at the points when you flick them open.
Wayne
Joe in the last photo the points are set wrong they should be closed in that position , they should only be open on the peak of the cam . As hey are now you will never get a spark out of the coilQuote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
1. inside the distributor cap, i think all is good here
2. setting the points
still seems like i am getting spark at the spark plug no 1 BUT when inserted i think i am doing something wrong with the distributor. I did get a very brief backfire incident not exactly sure what this means. understand that when i rotate the crank and look at the rotor it can be in one of two positions. if i am off one tooth when inserting the distributor will this cause no fire.
will re do the sequence
1. recheck to ensure rotor turns clockwise
2. TDC on crank pulley
3. drop distributor in lining up rotor to No1 cyl position, tighten down by hand
4. rotate distributor base to ensure points in open position
Does this sound correct or should steps 3 + 4 be reversed?
1 -OK Joe the carbon is still in the cap so that's good.
2- You have set the points in the correct position so they are opening when they should.
3- Looking at your photo a few posts back it looks like you have the cam timing correct.
4- The next thing is to get the distributor timing correct. You need to get No 1 piston on TDC on compression stroke, because No 6 will also be on TDC at the same time. To do this you need to remove the rocker cover & have the rockers on No 6 cyl rocking ( so the exhaust valve is just closing & the inlet is just starting to open ) & No 1 cyl will be on the compression TDC. Now you refit the distributor so that the rotor once fully seated is pointing to No 1 on the dist cap. now rotate the dist body so the points are just starting to open. & at that it should fire on No 1.
5- If you now rotate the harmonic balancer so the timing mark lines up with the required setting & rotate the dist body so the points are just starting to open again then nip up the distributor. that should have the ignition timing close enough to start the motor.
The only other thing I can think of is that the hydraulic lifters have bleed off & have not fully filled.
I would go & give him a hand but living in Brisbane it is a little difficult I have tried to explain how to do it over the phone but am not sure he understands . It would be nice to see this motor running & he has spent a fair bit of cash on parts & I would hate to see him give up on it , is there any one in his area that knows how to check the distributor timing that could pop around & give a hand with this .
Joe I hope you don't mind me asking for you but I do think you need some live help.
Wayne
3 & 4 is correct sequence. Just make sure the points gap on the top of the cam is correct gap size and they definately close when on the flat. If all that is correct then the beast should fire up. It is a pity you dont live near me. I have all the old equipment to set the points, the timing etc.
4. If No.1 is at TDC - with both valves closed, the points should have just opened with the cam moving in its usual direction.
If you connect a 12v test lamp (not a timing light) between the low tension lead on the distributor and an earth, it will illuminate when the points start to open and is easier that trying to determine the opening point by eye.
