Tiny bit excited

Not sure it has one or not till i check, the grommet is in place prob just the grommet though, so have ordered new just in case, see below. My vehicle is at my parents house some 4-5 houses down the road so cant check. chances are the valve is either missing or non existent so happy to buy new and know its ok.

repco sold me a incorrect point set, had to return and go to SCA and get the correct one. the wiring to plug into my distributor was different from the repco one provided. so new points installed but not sure how to set these in correct position ie timing. bought some fuel as well and a clear see thru hose from bunnings to see if when i crank next the fuel pump works or not (instead of relying on the starting agent).

next week with the delivery of the refurb carby + new coil = possible start for the first time if by then i can sort out the gearbox alignment. exciting days ahead, cant wait.

HOLDEN PCV VALVE, GROMMET, CLIPS AND HOSE KIT TO SUIT 6 CYL 186 161 173 202 9320791211821 | eBay

Setting the points , turn the engine by hand untill the points are fully open on any cylinder , on peak of the dist cam , then with correct fealer gauge set the gap/ The gauge should slide through & not open the points any more but not be loose, You can adjust the points by loosening the points securing screw , there is usually a little nick in the points & dist base plate that you can put a flat bladed screw driver into open & close the points gap. Then tighten securing screw & recheck the gap. I can't remember what the gap for a Holden is , too many years since I worked on a Holden motor, :unsure:
Attachment 158649 The blue arrow points to were you use the screw driver to adjust the gap.
Also check that earth wire is not broken red arrow. I looked up the gap for a Holden 186 motor it gave between 12 -16 thou. so 14 - 15 would be good.Attachment 158650I know this is a drg of a 4 cyl dist but you can see how the points are on top of the dist cam. I could not find one for a Holden motor

1. test fitted the fuel bottle with clear see thru hose, whilst cranking the fuel began to rise to the pump, so pump working correctly, see attached pipe to inlet side of fuel pump

2. my cheap plastic tool for setting the clutch correctly, i think i was out on the alignment which made fitting the box in correctly. so i withdrew the box, took off the press plate and clutch fitted my tool to both aligned then fitted to the end of the engine. to my surprise it actually worked well. placed a little grease to the end of the main gear of box entering the engine rear and she went in nicely. got a win here

3. gearbox mated to the engine with most bolts securing it to the engine, glad thats sorted now

4. while i was at this, i threw together the box mounts which have rubber engine mounts of a later series or defender and this looks to work well. i think this makes the box sit a little higher then normal but has enough clearances all round.

Another productive day amidst the rain...

1. coil arrived in the mail today, couldn't wait to fit onto the S1

2. found my gearstick and thought to throw this on, in case the vehicle starts and i want to try out the gears

3. fitted coil with a temp wire to the positive with female connector for quick disconnect, (don't want a repeat of last time with the coil overheating whilst charging the battery)

one thing i have found on youtube was that the distributor base plate when you remove the points/contact should rotate and mine looked a little rusty so sprayed wd40, but should this base plate rotate and should i oil this item. could this have caused some of my starting woes?

also the vacuum? mushroom on the distributor has a pipe existing, where do i connect this pipe to? see pic 4 with arrow.

It connects to the intake manifold. Usually a different hole to the PCV connection, but I'm not familiar with Holdens.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

It connects to the intake manifold. Usually a different hole to the PCV connection, but I'm not familiar with Holdens.

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^^ x2
It's the vacuum advance. With the distributor cap off, suck on the vacuum advance tube and you should see the timing advance operate.

Attachment 158698 Vacuum advance hose goes from here on base of the carby to fitting on vacuum advance. If you fit a hose on the vacuum advance & suck on it should rotate the base plate in the distributer . if it dose to check the vacuum advance is in good condition suck on the hose & 7 put your tong over the hose & see if it holds vacuum.
Wayne

The oil tastes OK, but the taste tends to linger.

1. rear flexible hose finally fitted after purchasing the nut separately. My one complaint about these parts is they sell the rubber flex brake hose without the nut to secure to chassis which is a real pain. same with the u bolts most sold without the nuts. crazy to me. anyway managed to buy the nut separately and fitted.

2. same flex hose fits the front brake lines. 3 in total one at rear and two fronts.

3. I had one twisted pigtail, so thought to buy two new ones from the UK for consistency

4. here it is both fitted, not completely happy with the tailgate one day may source a better complete tailgate in better condition. Is that pigtail fitted the right way round meaning the L and R side.

5. close up of some surface rust on the distributor base.

6. Tried the suction technique and nothing moves inside - my guess is the surface rust or a faulty vacuum. can you buy this part separate or would i need a new compl distributor if after cleaning it does not move. you can see the clear hose connected to the end for sucking on.

You should be able to buy the vacuum advance separately. You just need to get the correct one for what ever size motor you have & I think there were two different distributors used by Holden that is probably why you got the wrong points. The different motors have a different advance curve . & the later motors run retarded .

It should be written on the side of the distributor what it is . so if you tell the parts supplier all the info in the side you should get the correct part.