Post # 853 3/7/20 by 67hardtop - "when in doubt, fat side out"
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Post # 853 3/7/20 by 67hardtop - "when in doubt, fat side out"
I am practically certain it is meant to be flat!
edit - sorry the numbers and pics don't match this time
1. this is the view from either side of the clutch - almost look identical in terms of its protrusion out, will have a closer look of the new friction plate to see for markings for fitment but want to make sure its the right way in this time. my other theory is because I had tightened the fingers so much more could that have led to the bolts rubbing regardless of whether the friction plate was installed correctly or not???
2. the other end of the cross shaft inside the gearbox had this bow - it is thick metal so can't understand how it could bulge like this in its position inside the bellhousing of the gearbox, weird... Anyone suggest a theory why this would bend like this???
3. another view, this led to the cross shaft loosing proper contact the other end because of this free play
4. inside view with cover off
5. inside view with cross shaft pushed out
6. so out came the heat gun, pliers and some timber and a hammer to flatten down
7. as flat as i could get it, seemed to work out ok
8. re fitted into position, this was a pretty easy fix and glad i did it. will stop any movement of the cross shaft backwards and allow for better and correct matching/contact of the teeth (other end).
next is the bread technique to get the spigot out while i wait for my parts to arrive. will do some light cleaning of the flywheel to ensure its as clean as it can be.
2. Someone has used a hammer to engage the spline at the other end when the teeth are not in line! Or accident damage having a similar effect, possibly a stick forced up between the clutch and brake pedals near the shaft.
Attachment 173831 This may help you with which way the clutch plate goes in . The flat side to the flywheel , the raised side to the pressure plate .
This is a rough Drg but may help Attachment 173833 If the plate is in wrong way the raised section will hit on the flywheel securing bolts if correct way the raised section will fit into the hole in the pressure & can not hit on anything.
The way the pressure plate finger height is set BUT you will need special tools to do itAttachment 173837
This is what the fly wheel side looks like. Some plates are marked.
.W.
G'day,
Note that the thick cross shaft end thrust plate needs a gasket to stop it from leaking oil.
I use a tiny amount of Black Max silicon sealer when I re-build as a paper gasket seems to cause the bolts to loosen over time.
Good Luck.
Chris
Cannot thank you all for your suggestions and help.
Wayne that hand drawing of the friction plate is most useful - and confirms I had the friction plate in the wrong way round.
Lesson in this - you can still manage to drive a series with the friction plate in backwards...
1. got some bread to do the spigot removal but did not work for me
2. here is the measurement inside the flywheel for the spigot - 26mm (trying to work out whether there is a spigot in there or not)
3. here are the measurements for the spigot on order from Kotara fourx4
4. here taking the internal measurement ID
5. here is the ID measurement off the input shaft of the gearbox 22mm
6. tailgate chain fitted perfectly
7. I now have a drop down tailgate working perfectly
8. rear side of the tailgate bracket
9. chains - one end piece heated and rounded to fit over the pig tail - worked a treat
10. Is there a spigot in here or not??? there is a free spinning spigot of sorts which i cannot remove floating inside - could it have been forced inwards when fitting the gearbox and how best to remove???
I can't answer your questions re the spigot bush but make sure you follow the instructions given by '1950landy' (post 1009 19/8/21) re lubricating the spigot bush prior to fitting.
You're right there is a bush in there!!. It has been pushed thru into the crank. The bush should be in the flywheel and flush with the outside shoulder.
I took some measurements from a 2A G/B with little visible wear to confirm:
The spigot on the end of the primary pinion shaft is 22.22mm diameter. The O/D on the splined primary pinion shaft is 28.54mm (measurement tol. +/- 0.02mm)
So that means your primary pinion shaft can only reach the length of the spigot end into the flywheel hole of 26mm. (Your spigot end has some wear at 22.18mm diameter.).
As mentioned by John you will need to replace the spigot bush and need a mandrel to insert the new one. Measure the replacement and determine if it needs some machining so it will press fit in the flywheel. After installation determine the ID of the bush and has clearance with the spigot end of the primary pinion shaft. I would remove the old bush that is lodged in the crank.
I think the best way forward would be to remove the flywheel and take it to a machine shop to do. (Those flywheel bolts need replacing and locking plates on them as well. Also tightened with a tension wrench.)
When installing G/B be careful not to force it into the new bush and use a clutch plate alignment tool to center on flywheel. The gearbox should easily slide in once the splines are aligned.
Hope this helps.
Chris
