Tiny bit excited

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Originally Posted by Busted Syncro

You're right there is a bush in there!!. It has been pushed thru into the crank. The bush should be in the flywheel and flush with the outside shoulder.
I took some measurements from a 2A G/B with little visible wear to confirm:
The spigot on the end of the primary pinion shaft is 22.22mm diameter. The O/D on the splined primary pinion shaft is 28.54mm (measurement tol. +/- 0.02mm)
So that means your primary pinion shaft can only reach the length of the spigot end into the flywheel hole of 26mm. (Your spigot end has some wear at 22.18mm diameter.).
As mentioned by John you will need to replace the spigot bush and need a mandrel to insert the new one. Measure the replacement and determine if it needs some machining so it will press fit in the flywheel. After installation determine the ID of the bush and has clearance with the spigot end of the primary pinion shaft. I would remove the old bush that is lodged in the crank.
I think the best way forward would be to remove the flywheel and take it to a machine shop to do. (Those flywheel bolts need replacing and locking plates on them as well. Also tightened with a tension wrench.)
When installing G/B be careful not to force it into the new bush and use a clutch plate alignment tool to center on flywheel. The gearbox should easily slide in once the splines are aligned.
Hope this helps.
Chris

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Joe ,Yes you can see the bush has been pushed through the flywheel & into the Crankshaft , drought it would be supporting the input shaft were it is , If shaft is going into the bush it would not be by much. Sorry to have to say, I think it is time you payed someone to replace the bush & sort out this problem other wise it will drive you insane & you will still be trying to sort it in another year & you still need to get the brakes to work .

Thanks to all but not sure why I need to take to workshop to press the new spigot in, why cant i do this at home in situ.
Undecided to take the flywheel off yet. might see if i can remove with a chisel carefully the old spigot but now with the failed bread test, its lodged in the back and could just leave it there though could come loose and rattle inside. i think the bread has stopped it freely moving inside. there is heaps of room for the new spigot will wait and see.

1. clearly can see there is a spigot inside with better lighting

2. moved onto the gearstick while waiting for parts to arrive monday apparently, heated and took that locking screw/nut off only to find its useless, slides in and out, time to find a more suitable bolt

3. best alternative i could find at home was this set up, thread is perfect and tight. i think this just stops the gearstick rotating?

4. here in position just needs the end to be filed to be able to insert into the groove

5. bit of a clean up though you cant see with the rubber grommet around it when fitted

6. almost complete, just need to file the end piece though has been re assembled as one complete unit.

Need to revisit the hand brake where it attaches to the gearbox - could not align.
brakes when last tested on my driveway - just going down the drive in neutral or reverse after two pumps of the brakes did hold the LR, so my mission is to use a large syringe and pump brake fluid from the brake cylinder nipples back up to the reservoir tank

1. when the gearbox was fitted the handbrake connection just would not align, so whilst its out, came up with this idea to straighten even though the nut was loose, seems to have loosen enough to rotate to correct position when fitted back in. that should sort out the handbrake.

2. flywheel removed, back side still has some bread left over

3. engine side, you can clearly see the spigot, came out pretty easily

4. troublesome spigot though in ok condition, NOTE to self submerge in engine oil for 1day prior to fitting (will use the new one of course)

5. spins freely on the gearbox end as it should

6. tighter fit this end as it should be.

On reflection i think when i had problems re fitting the gearbox to the engine some time ago and prob the box in on an angle would of caused this spigot to push back out of its correct position, NOTE to self - ensure box and engine are parallel when refitting the box.

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Originally Posted by shamirj

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2. moved onto the gearstick while waiting for parts to arrive monday apparently, heated and took that locking screw/nut off only to find its useless, slides in and out, time to find a more suitable bolt
Years ago I made a sleeve threaded inside and outside and tapped this hole to a larger size to fit a new bolt.
3. best alternative i could find at home was this set up, thread is perfect and tight. i think this just stops the gearstick rotating?

The bolt is supposed to have an unthreaded section that fits the slot in the ball, and is supposed to be the right length so a locknut is not needed. When I had my gearlever apart recently I made a new one as the old one was worn. And yes, it stops the gearlever rotating.

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While I was at it, I polished the ball and the top and bottom sockets it pivots on (in the casting and the steel dish above the spring, and assembled it lubricated with MoS2 grease. I now have a gearchange that is better than it has ever been in the thirty-odd years I have owned the vehicle!

Good work this morning on flywheel removal and spigot bush out. From your measurement of the flywheel bush housing ~26mm and the new bush stated as 27mm it will be a heavy press fit and probably damage the bush. However, the new bush maybe the correct size so measure up and see.
To stop the bush from pushing thru in the future a machine shop could machine a shoulder on a suitable bush to stop this. Also the bush housing maybe oversize or tapered and they can true up for you.

I found this YouTube video on how to fit the bush if it is the correct size. Interesting the bush is a tap fit so easy to push thru without a shoulder on the bush. Watch the picture as audio is not English!. [bigwhistle]
Bronze bush in Land Rover 2.25 petrols flywheel - YouTube

Hope it goes well.
Chris

To help align the box and keep it straight when installing, a useful dodge is to fit three or four long bolts with the heads removed where the studs for the flywheel housing go. Slot the ends so they are easy to tighten and then remove later. Need to be long enough to make sure everything is aligned before the input shaft enters the clutch plate.

Would it be worthwhile filing a slight chamfer on the bush where the shaft enters?
I did similar recently when replacing the radius arm bushes on my 110 and it made them much easier to align/insert.

Wouldn't hurt, but if I remember rightly there is a chamfer on the end of the input shaft so it would not have much effect.

Joe, DONT use a steel hammer on the bronze spigot bush as it could damage it. Use a small block of wood to hammer against to knock the bush in. Try soaking the new bush in gear oil. I figured you had the driven plate in backwards ages ago. Might not hurt to replace the flywheel bolts as they are damaged. Torque to 75 foot pounds. Make sure the mating faces of the crankshaft and flywheel are clean and flat. No rust! Cheers mate.

Once again thank you to all suggestions big and small, much appreciated...

think I am going crazy why might you ask well, couldn't sleep so got up at 2am to work on my series LR, then finished up had a shower and went back to bed by 4am. this was the result.

so my parcel of spigot and friction plate arrived earlier then expected which got me excited about putting this gearbox back together again (hopefully for the last time)

1. so after leaving the spigot in engine oil overnight it was time to compare the pair (new one on the right) almost exactly the same dimensions

2. comparing the old and new friction plate, note the missing 3 springs on the old one

3. close up of the old plate with said missing springs of sorts

4. nice and new, and no markings for either side for fitment (but have my trusty drawing from Wayne to help out here)

5. and here the spigot hammered into position using some soft wood, went in easily enough and a nice fit, test fitted onto the gearbox and again a tight nice fit. so fitted into position. note the texture marking on the face to help align. this was another trick i saw on youtube, using another spanner to lock flywheel in position when torqueing up the other bolts (Lesson 3) stop the flywheel rotating as you tighten.

NOTE - as you get older (and you do something repeatedly) you become wiser. so before taking the flywheel off i did a texture marking and re fitting was so much easier then trying to guess where the holes are to line up. Lesson 1.

Lesson 2. took the flywheel off without taking the starter motor off - saving more time.

And john love the idea of extended bolts for aligning the gearbox to the motor, so off to bunnings to source some bolts to use. just makes sense. great idea. just need to get my clutch aligning tool from parents house next.