Tiny bit excited

1. water pump pulley has arrived hoping it will fit but not sure till i test it out, raining so cant test fit the damn thing

2-3. close up of the paint finish on my springs, not happy but cant understand whats going on. this has had two coats of spray paint (not the best paint to start with) but was new and 'heat paint' for engines, manifolds etc. looks great first couple of days then the rain hits and looks like crap as if its not painted at all. why would the surface after painted be rust like with pockets of orange as you would expect from raw steel left out in the rain unpainted or untreated. ???

1-2 water pump pulley fitted into position, lines up beautifully with the crank pulley. still need to work the alternator to come fwd to line up. so glad this pulley fitted first time right after having returned the other one. cheers

1. what under the axle housing should look like after cleaning

2. mine had something steel in the hole, maybe a snapped bolt from the springs, so halfway thru drilling this opening up

3. drilled n cleaned up, ready to accept the spring bolt head, remember this is underneath the axle housing

4. spring base plate on one of mine had a snapped bolt end

5. sourced a suitable size bolt and drilled out the offending piece to accept the new bolt, welded into position

6. bolt head cut off, found a suitable nut, done

pushing ahead to get this S1 completed...

1-2. wiggled the rear diff/axle into position, just taking up too much room in the open garage. some bits have been painted but will require more paint later but just wanted it out of the way and under the vehicle. done

3. same again with the firewall sitting around collecting rubbish, thought why not throw that on as well. done

4-5. as it sits now, with the front axle/diff ready for install but ran out of energy. just need to lift the front to slide the front diff into position and lightly secure with some spring bolts. note engine oil coming out of somewhere when we tilted the front down.

1. air vents bolted into position along with starter button just seen here in pic

2. my bottle jack wont lift anymore stuffed, have a better one in my car but its at the mechanics. need to lift front end to slide the axle/diff into position

Have you checked the oil in the jack may just need toping up with hydraulic oil. Should be a filler plug in the side , you fill it untill the oil starts running out with the ram fully down.

thx for the suggestion re the bottle jack tried everything its dead so will wait till i get my D4 back and use its bottle jack instead

1. windscreen sitting around taking up space so decided to fit it to firewall and out of the way

2. pressure plate and clutch fitted with new tool i bought from repco (clutch alignment tool) made of plastic, fiddled around hope its lined up but will only know for sure when going to fit the gearbox

3. left over steel from the springs removed from the leaf springs, were the same thickness and width of the rear tub tabs to secure to the chassis. cut them out to size and grinded ready to weld, only needed 3x

4. rear crossmember has timber in place to align holes for the tub securing tabs. cut off the 3x badly welded and rusted tabs, ready to weld new ones. found out this steel for the springs is quite tuff to drill, is it hardened steel which needs a special drill bit?

1. more parts painted and ready for install. wish i had a manual or need to find my old pics to see which way these items get bolted up.

2. installed battery and negative lead, just need to pick up some new leads for the positive side after taking some measurements of what is needed. 24inch lengths of positive cabling required one for the battery to starter switch on firewall then another 24inch length from switch to starter motor.

Attachment 157627Attachment 157628 Joe , Hope this is of some help sorry they are on there side battery is flat on my camera so had to use my phone. 1st is from parts book 2nd workshop manual.
Wayne

Hi Joe, Leaf spring steel is just that. Spring steel and is extremely hard to drill. Find some scrap flat steel. If you weld spring steel it goes very brittle as well unless you know how to weld it. Heating it up and cooling down etc. Cheers Rod

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shamirj

thx for the suggestion re the bottle jack tried everything its dead so will wait till i get my D4 back and use its bottle jack instead

1. windscreen sitting around taking up space so decided to fit it to firewall and out of the way

2. pressure plate and clutch fitted with new tool i bought from repco (clutch alignment tool) made of plastic, fiddled around hope its lined up but will only know for sure when going to fit the gearbox

3. left over steel from the springs removed from the leaf springs, were the same thickness and width of the rear tub tabs to secure to the chassis. cut them out to size and grinded ready to weld, only needed 3x

4. rear crossmember has timber in place to align holes for the tub securing tabs. cut off the 3x badly welded and rusted tabs, ready to weld new ones. found out this steel for the springs is quite tuff to drill, is it hardened steel which needs a special drill bit?

---