Tiny bit excited

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Originally Posted by shamirj

1. our dog can't understand what all the fuss is about
2. water pump removed, lots of crap left inside wow
3. hole for the water pump OMG, white stuff, is that carbon deposits???
4. used degreaser and a steam cleaner to very limited success in cleaning the block, out came the water blaster which did a better job
5. engine washed with water blaster, and the dist turned right way round...
6. do the spring bolts need to be special high tensile or could i get replacement ones from bunnings

harmonic balancer purchased of ebay, await delivery friday yay...
My plan was to see if this engine would start and was working before spending too much on it if its no good but i think the balancer is needed for the timing. I will need to jack up the front of the engine to get access to the balancer otherwise wont be able to remove due to clearance issues...

I did turn the motor over by hand and had the first spark plug at the top of its stroke using a screwdriver thru the spark plug hole.

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I also noticed in your latest photo of the leads it seams the leads have been fitted in the wrong direction . I am sure the distributor turns clock wards it looks like you have fitted then anti clock wise.

I have had a look for my Holden work shop manual but it appears that I no longer have it. The last time I would have seen it would have been about 1980 when I sold the VB ( very bad ) Commodore we had. Have never bought a GM product since. You should be able to get one from any second hand book shop or swap meet at a reasonable price.

1. re did the spark plug leads, i think this is the correct location now
2. took cap off to show where the locator is pointing at

update is that the engine whilst cranking is not back firing anymore, so a little win for me

Pls confirm Spark Plug 1 is the cyl head closest to me standing in front of the engine
Took all leads and spark plugs out, rotated engine till No 1 piston was in the highest position
Took dist cap off and locator was pointing to one of the spark plugs which I read to be the No 1 location for the leads... i have cranked engine since fitting so dist locator has moved. Will this affect the timing in relation to the engine timing or not by cranking the engine?

Is this correct thus far... if yes then the ign timing is good to go, and then just need the harm balancer to time the engine (Yes or No)

Yes no1 cylinder is at the front of the engine.

You have the leads going in the correct rotation now , but still dose not like you have no 1 lead in the correct position in the cap. I think some one has taken the distributor out & not put it back correct. SEE PHOTO FOR LEAD POSITION. Attachment 154301 Attachment 154301Attachment 154303

Just having no1 piston at the top dose not mean it is on TDC without taking the rocker cover off to check that the valves are rocking on no6 , you could have no6 on TDC , but usually the motor will back fire if incorrect.

I really think you need some help from some one who knows Holden Red Motors who could come & give you a hand to sort it out.

Why not try asking for some help in the Holden Powered Land Rover section on the forum, you may find some one who lives near you who would be happy to give you a hand. It is very hard to access what is wrong without being there .

Wayne

1 look what arrived from gumtree, i had no air cleaner for the 186
2 fitted perfectly just will need a new filter, smaller and more compact then the original holden 186 filter assembly
3 chassis wires needed replacing but only one end of the chassis had the wires poking out
4 new temp wires fed through both ends in prep for the new wiring - was thinking of passing through some trailer wiring which have 7 wires that should be enough? to feed the rear lights
5 finally used my two diff length cb aerials and pushed them through one end to the other to attach new wires

have a neighbour few houses away who is always tinkering in his garage older bloke who i am thinking of approaching to ask about helping with the timing when i see him next.

thinking of removing the engine and gearbox as well even though i did not want to, for ease of cleaning the chassis and doing some rust repairs

neighbour failed to help out, think he maybe a woodwork man judging by the look of his garage on w/end

1-3. so the plan was on to find TDC without replacing the harmonic balancer quite yet. engine will need to go up to get access to the harm bal. so tried to figure out the angle between the markings on the engine block TDC and the relation to the harm bal.

4. shows the angle for TDC on the engine using my paper cut out, crude but should be right. I line up the right side of the top bolt and the right side of the protrusion in the balancer to fit onto engine and the left side of cut out paper is where TDC should be...

5. shows the current state, changed the dist location inside the engine, changed the dist location and re wired the leads, cleaned the points, check power from the coil all good, but no start ...[bawl]

confident of finding TDC using my crazy method, dist seems like its in the right position now, leads look in correct position, points cleaned up, leads are old, coil pulsating with test lamp so producing potential spark, spark plugs are all new, cant imagine my timing is that far out, no back fire, good cranking but no start

1. think my issue maybe the coil, run a test lamp on it and unsure whether it works properly, on previous attempts was getting spark two spark plugs tested, but shouldn't the centre cable going to the centre of the dist have some power - was not able to get any power on this lead using the battery and test lamp, there is power on the positive side and neg (when polarity reversed for testing) from memory

1. just dawned on me i dont really have a good earth so this blue cable was not fitted as i was earthing the car with my neg to the starter motor as my earth and starting cranking point, is this my problem not earthing separately

2. black cable is the negative to the starter which cranks her over, but should i connect the earth from the engine block to the neg as well, or it does not matter really...

I almost got it started with a tiny glimmer of hope when cranking but that was without the earth blue cable connected...

Run a wire from the power side of your battery to the input side of the coil that will make sure you have power to the coil. the wire will need to have an alligator clip on one end so it can be removed if the engine dose start you can get it to stop running.

1-4 removed the propshaft then the tail shaft from the S1, they look identical in length just glancing at them both side by side

I'm guessing i need 4 uni joints all the same (guessing) and two rubber covers and some tlc plus paint should be done.
Given up temp on the engine running, neighbour said he would drop off a holden manual and some notes on how to start the car...

I didn't want to break apart the box and engine but will prob have to, to remove it. Going to lower the engine and box to the ground then lift the chassis up and off (don't have a hoist)