Tiny bit excited

1. Front lamps completed except the wiring, needed to add piece of rubber behind park light to have the lamps on the same angle, blinker has a cut out which angles the lamp downwards, so tried to copy that angle

2. here fitted to d/side, p/side done as well and they don't look to bad

3. side profile and trying to get that same angle, sitting flat against the mudguard just didn't look right for the 2nd lamp, both were pointing in different directions, looked a little weird, now corrected. pushing on...

4. new parcel arrived today can you guess whats inside, for those in the know it can only be one of three things produced largely by this company this big

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Originally Posted by shamirj

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4. new parcel arrived today can you guess whats inside, for those in the know it can only be one of three things produced largely by this company this big

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Looks like you'll have to get a move on with your hood sticks so you can fit what I assume is in the parcel. :whistling:

1. Decided to fill up with fresh gear oil in my new relay, OMG its so slow, took me approx 20mins to fill her up, opened one hole for pouring and another for air to escape. job done but very slow, having a brand new relay with no oil meant it would take longer

2. Pouring oil via a syringe worked well, then poked both holes with a wire to open up more air pockets to allow more oil to enter, seemed to to work really well in pushing down the oil or escaping the air

3. Here was my earthing question, i have only temporarily connected the red positive wire to the battery - no negative connected here

4. Again only the positive terminal connected for my lights to test the rear lamps

5. Rear light again only the positive cable from the battery and yet the lamp works, why? there is no negative earth cable other then the terminal inside the lamp which is screwed into the alum body, surely that cannot act as a neg earth or can it?

Have used trailer wiring 5wires front to back and thinking whether i need a dedicated earth wire front to back? For the rear I need one wire for each blinker (2), two for brake/park light (2) and thought to use the 5th wire as a negative earth cable.

1. Since we are coming on winter, it probably would have helped to heat both the oil and the relay (not above 100C)

3. I assume the battery is earthed to the chassis?

5. The body/chassis will most certainly provide an earth, although it is not always reliable. I can't remember how the Series 1 is wired - the wiring diagram just shows the lights earthed - but I assume it is the same as my 2a in that the earth wire from the lights goes to a common earth bolt on the rear chassis crossmember. This means that there is only this bolt as a potential earth fault (provided the engine/chassis link is good), whereas if you relied on the body earth, there is the bolt on the lamp, and the bolt(s) between the body and the chassis. The advantage of using a local chassis connection is that by using the whole chassis as your return wire, there is less voltage drop.

Most lights are designed so as to provide earthing through the mounting bolts.

Hope this helps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shamirj

1. Front lamps completed except the wiring, needed to add piece of rubber behind park light to have the lamps on the same angle, blinker has a cut out which angles the lamp downwards, so tried to copy that angle

2. here fitted to d/side, p/side done as well and they don't look to bad

3. side profile and trying to get that same angle, sitting flat against the mudguard just didn't look right for the 2nd lamp, both were pointing in different directions, looked a little weird, now corrected. pushing on...

4. new parcel arrived today can you guess whats inside, for those in the know it can only be one of three things produced largely by this company this big

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Now you have the Canvas you should be able to check that the curve on the template I have sent you by snail mail ( last package I ordered from Sydney took almost 4 weeks to get to Brisbane & when it arrive the product was broken) is correct by laying it out against the canvas. If you do the bows in two halves you rill need a solid spigot that is a snug fit onside the pipe for when you weld it . I would also not weld the washers on the sticks until you have trial fitted the canvas so you can adjust the height up or down of the bows. Let me know if you need any of the clamps that hold the bows in the capping & I will check if I have any when I am next at the workshop.

I see the battery is earthed to the motor there must be an earth from the motor / gearbox to the chassis some were, it could also be earthing back through other electrical fittings

Still don't understand why the single red brake lamp works when only the positive is connected and no negative or is it drawing an earth through the screw inside the lamp onto the alum body, body being bolted to the chassis is earthing that way?

Just got your parcel today 1950Landy and yes i will require all 4 clamps for the hood sticks when ready if available otherwise will purchase a set. cheers for your help again.

1. Got happy the lamps were working today then thought about the flashing blinkers so went to SCA and bought a flasher unit, diagram off youtube on the right how to connect a 3pin connector (flasher)

2. unit had 3 other denominations like L for the lamps, X positive and P negative as seen in 1st pic backing cardboard, unit burnt out

3. after connecting straight from the battery terminals just the neg and pos it started smoking, connecting the 3rd terminal actually made the blinkers blink, thought it was all good and working but somehow the direct connection from the battery terminals to the two terminals X and P burnt the unit out. What am i doing wrong please.

THE EARTYH WILL BE THROUGH THE SCREWS TO THE BODY WHIVH IS BOLTED TO THE CHASSIS , THERE MUST BE AN EARTH FROM THE CHASSIS TO THE ENGINE SOME WERE AS YOU DON'T HAVE THE GEARBOX IN FOR IT TO GO THROUGH THE CLUTCH LINKAGE & YOU HAVE AN EARTH FROM THE BATTERY TO THE ENGINE BLOCK. THERE MAY BE AN EARTH FROM THE BULKHEAD TO THE ENGINE OR THROUGH LINKAGES . EVEN IF THE ENGINE IS SITTING DOWN ON THE X MEMBER IT COULD BE EARTHING THROUGH THERE.

1. prepared the hood sticks for bending by marking the centre of the steel tube then marking out 3inches either side of the centre line so as to even out the bend so not all of the bend is in one position, must say the pipe/tube bender makes it so easy, just need to be careful not to overshoot the bend

2. nervously slotted the first bend into position, its 100% there allowing for some wriggle room in case i need to move things up/down or sideways. one of my cappings here where the hood stick enters the capping has its welds compromised so will need a quick reweld

3. both fronts done, right side as ample room to move up, made sure i had excess steel either ends both at the top and the bottom sections for alignment purposes

4. here is the machine in action, i did 10 pumps at each 1inch interval

5. both rears completed as well, used a big right angle L to make sure i am getting 90 degrees which is challenging, i may use the side hoops to tie up with rope to try and align everything up. But so far impressed by the bends and the pipe bender, will fine tune as i go along.

I think you are to be commended for having a go at something few would even attempt. Are you going to get the finished items galvanised?