You're right, you need bulbs that fit a Ba15 base. Ba15s is single, Ba15d is double filament.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
.W.
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You're right, you need bulbs that fit a Ba15 base. Ba15s is single, Ba15d is double filament.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
.W.
You need to pull the inner cable out then fit the outer cable in the dash & then refit the inner cable.
Joe just maker sure the knob dose not screw off the shaft, or if there is a hole in the side of the of the knob with a screw or plunger . If it has a plunger , push the plunger in & the knob should pull off if a screw take the screw out & the knob will either pull off or screw off.
Those three holes are where the choke warning light actuator is fitted - on Series III - operated an orange dash light when choke was on. Two locating holes and the middle one operated the switch/actuator.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
thanks to all for your suggestions, all noted
1 this is a small piece for the firewall (cover) p/s which needed cleaning, takes so long to do these little things
2 painted letting to dry as it goes on p/s need this to do the accelerator cabling which bolts thru this cover
3 my clutch shaft removed and inspected, lot of slack in these holes
4 decided to weld up and see if i can reduce the amount of slack and re drill a new hole
5 done, fitted but again less slack but still not enough to engage disengage the clutch, i doubt i could find this new might need to look for these 2nd hand and in better condition then mine or reweld and re drill again for a tighter fit and finish. maybe even hammer the outer shaft (sleeve) to a more pronounced flatter surface as well, these are not round but a little flat
Had a scratch around in my electrical spares and found two of the Series III choke cable switches. Give me a call next time you're up this way Joe and you can have them both.
Attachment 160557
The sleeve should be too hard to be hammered flatter. The hole in the shaft needs to be a close fit on the pin, and the pin has to be hard. Just use an ordinary bolt for the pin, and it will not last long. Also note that the engine is on flexible mounts, but the clutch shaftis on the chassis, so there needs to be some movement available, but not in rotation.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
priced o/seas for these cross shafts for the clutch, way too expensive, might have another go at welding it and redrilling to a tighter tolerance and see how i go.
1. Went to local bolt shop and grabbed 4x of these flat washers to be welded to my hoodsticks once i get a pipe bender
2. Clark rubber next to buy some door rubber needed 3.3m and fitted well, has sticky tape on back to stick to LR, I know the original were better quality and riveted on, lets see if they last
3. more grommets for behind the dash, time consuming stuff really
4. d/s door rubber fitted 19mm wide seemed to fit well
5. went to bunnings to get more gal bolts for the side step, below door jam, both sides loosely fitted
6. rear tailgate fitted with rubber as well
that choke does not pull apart, there are no obvious (to me) screws or pins to push to release the knob to fit, got me stuffed
1. Took this clutch pedal rod off and lubricated so that i could better adjust the nuts up and down the shaft to set to maximum articulation for the clutch to operate. done and fitted
2. I'm now thinking the problem or slack in the system is from the shaft inside the gearbox (see in blue) which rotates 1/4 turn sitting idle, which in turn is the slack in the system so to speak. I am thinking its time for the gearbox to come out and fix this issue but before i do that, is it abnormal for that shaft to rotate 1/4 turn sitting still??? Dreading the thought of having to undo more work but it has to be done, is it a easy fit, able to get parts for this, what could likely be the culprit please.
The cross shaft is tight enough within what i would consider tight tolerances with some slack but the biggest slack seems to be this shaft within the box. bugger
1. seat box removed
2. gearstick removed
3. this washer (not sure what its called) slides back and forth when in this out position, the cross shaft had a lot of play (rotation)
4. when depressed the cross shaft was fine, doubt this could have been the problem, assume when you slide the box to the engine this will generally get push inwards. first i thought maybe this washer was protruding outwards allowing more slack in cross shaft???
5. current status
6-7 please refer to two videos re slack in the system so to speak, suggestions all welcome please, first video with cross shaft + lots of slack, 2nd video no cross shaft very little slack - looks ok to me minimum slack and seems within tolerances (to me)
I suggest you look at the pictures in the workshop manual. Excess free play in side the bell housing (i.e. after you have fixed excess free play outside) has to be that the 'washer' (withdrawal sleeve in Rover parlance) is having to move too far before starting to release the clutch. This is probably because the release levers are incorrectly adjusted, or the cross shaft is incorrectly positioned in the release fork. A slight possibility is an out of tolerance driven plate or the flywheel has been machined too far.
