2. Yes. If you use a faily low speed you don't risk damage, even if you get the wrong direction. The speedo cable does not actually turn all that fast.
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2. Yes. If you use a faily low speed you don't risk damage, even if you get the wrong direction. The speedo cable does not actually turn all that fast.
1. 6way junction box position - pass side has two like holes that match up perfectly to the junction box holes to secure but seems to be on the wrong side of the firewall
2. driver side has only one hole but seems like the more logical choice in mounting the junction box. So which side does it fit please???
3. rear of the ignition switch, found some of the letters designating which wires go where, IG goes to ignition etc, but surely there has to be a positive wire connect to this somewhere but no mention in the wiring diagram, is that because they were positive ground?
4. got some new wires for the alternator to wire up, thicker wire then normal wiring found on the car, pencil as a reference almost same thickness, suitable for the 100amp alternator? How can i test that the alternator once the car has started is producing amps to the battery (charging as it should) I don't have a volt/amp gauge meter as such?
I wish you would hurry up and finish this vehicle - I have a Series 1 you can get started on as soon as you finish your own [thumbsupbig].
Garry
3. Yes. No positive wire because it was positive earth. Shoould be labelled "B" or something like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
4. You really need a voltmeter - a multimeter is a useful test instrument for anything to do with car wiring. Do not attempt to wire the charging current from a 100A alternator via the ammeter.
FYI - found this on the LR series one club - A is not required for my application as i have the alternator. S is also sometimes referred to as T, i think on mine i have one terminal with S & T, but where do i connect my positive terminal to IG straight from the battery + ?
The designations should be moulded in the plastic body near each terminal, they are on mine.
Should have A, wire from A1 on regulator box
H blue wire to headlamps,
IG white to ignition and
S, red wires to sidelights.
1. 6way junction box figured needs to be mounted on d/s, so measured the exact location of my holes on p/s and replicated on d/s
2. mounted into position, should be good to go just hope it should not touch the steering box once fitted
3. got these new lights of later series defenders but how do i connect the globes to it?
4. obviously these bulbs do not fit, so need to find something that will
4. Yes they doo - that grey bit pushes in against a spring, the pins on the side of the bulb go in slots you can just see, and then turn to lock.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
S or S&T is the switched output to side and tail lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
H is the switched supply to the headlights, and goes to the junction box and then to the dip switch
IG is the switched ignition supply goes to the ignition and the services that come on with the ignition
A is the power supply from the battery and alternator, in your case, positive.
I have used those same indicator lights on Landy , once they are secured the bulbs fitted OK , Just make sure you secure to body through the earth tad beside the bulb hole . You need to make sure you have the correct bulbs to suit the holders , these days there are a lot of different configurations of pins for the different cars . In the old days there were either parallel pins for single filament bulbs or staggered pins for double filaments bulbs which made it easy. Dash bulbs had either screw , parallel. or straight plug in.
1 so my choke cable off a S3 arrived today, how do i get the nut off to screw down in the dash, they don't seem to come apart for any reason
2 mid section of the choke cable has this funny arrangement (not sure why) can i undo here to pull apart so that i can feed the cable thru then tighten up on the firewall
3 my 2nd lot of axle straps arrived even shorter then last time, OMG its for a swb but far too short, bolts to the two lower holes on chassis.
4 relay tapped into position
5 some hardware applied just need to line up for the steering, saw somewhere it has to be 81 degrees top and bottom, might put a straight piece of steel against front and rear tyres to ensure they are straight ahead then bolt up more with lower steering arm