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Joe, Is that the R/H side tail gate hook? I have one here some were that has been regalv but not sure were or which side . I will have a look next time i'am at the workshop & you can have it if you can't fix the old one . Usually with a bit of heat you can bend them around a bolt back into shape.
Wayne
Yes driver side.
1 - behind the seats are getting a clean out and hopefully some paint, again a lot of scrubbing and cleaning in a small confined area makes it harder but getting there. that damn black sound deadener is on there as well, i think this LR is, was covered in it. got lots more to do.
1-2 finished scrapping of the old paint, and put down a new layer of paint. done, i can now begin to fix the brackets for the seats.
3 seat box, started to paint the inside while I'm in the area so to speak
1-3 both pass and driver side outer guards inners were painted today, bit more scrapping all round then a coat of black matt paint to finish off. Outside will need more work before paint. happy to be able to bolt up the seat frames if i have enough bolts/nuts but think i am missing the forks which are the U channels which support the seat top backs. Never came with any seats at all.
1 fitted the seat back brackets with limited bolts i have, seem likes i keep on running low on bolts, anyway fitted for now till i get more bolts/nuts from bunnings, have been using galvanised bolts/nuts which seem to work well and look good
2-3 un/painted tool box under seat, prob should have done this before but now complete. the area above the d/side seat has one hole slot closed for the seat to slide into which will need surgery as well. the area is covered by alum reinforcing so will need to be opened up.
4 lastly the top edge of the upper guard panel needed some paint to finish off, so whilst the paint was out this was completed.
p/side outer guard needs more work to align properly, wish i could find a cheaper panel substitute. D4 got some treatment on the thermostat housing which was replaced as a precaution, def 90 got some much needed attention as well. devastated new house will not be ready now for another month-6weeks. bugger
1 found a nice pair of door tops, one needs some extra work as it has a slight bend but otherwise good to use
2 some of my door tops have a door lock others not, must of been an extra i think, the drill holes to fit onto the ones without do not exist. some of the sliding windows are perspex instead of glass again perhaps they were broken and replaced with perspex instead of glass (they seem to be the sliding ones which are perspex)
3-4 both inner alum panels removed and cleaned and prepped for painting
5 cleaning up of door frames
6 again some door tops look to have drain holes on either side others do not? they look original but my other doors do not have them, can someone please explain this one!
1 did some painting and finished one side of the pair of alum infills for the door tops, hopefully do the underside and then rivet onto the doors.
2 door top frame didn't need a lot of cleaning, so all done, glass cleaned, channels will change at a later date, so fitted to the door (driver side). just need new bolts for the top bracket which hinges to the windscreen frame and see if i can get new nuts for the door top bolts from bunnings.
the other frame needed a minor straighten (done) so will now need a quick clean and then refit
1-2 when you cannot find the correct nut from bunnings you have to find another way. before and after cleaning and painting the nuts and washers, time consuming but done
3 this allowed me to fit the p/side door but realised i need the rubber in between top and bottom door. almost completed the doors. almost...
86/107 doortops are all perspex. 88/109 have a fixed glass window and a drain channel with holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
.W.
Nearly all body bolts on Series one are BSF. You won't find them at Bunnings. Also, they are Sherardised. You won't find bolts and nuts protected that way at Bunnings either.
The solution is to replace them with a different thread bolt, preferably imperial (e.g. UNF) and preferably galvanised - also difficult to find.
Or replace them with the genuine type - I think these are available from the UK, but very expensive.
Or clean up the old ones, perhaps spraying them with Galvafroid.
Less satisfactory is to use metric bolts and definitely not stainless steel, for several reasons.