Tiny bit excited

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Originally Posted by shamirj

Getting conflicting messages re which way up, just to be sure, to be sure - which is the correct orientation please.

pic 1 or pic 2 - see the raised inner part of the clutch friction plate, Uk sites says pic 2.

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Joe 1st photo is correct, this is from my S1 workshop manual shows very clear.

Attachment 162199Attachment 162200
I know the pressure plate is different to yours but assembly is the same. If you put it in the wrong way the clutch will hit on the flywheel securing bolts. as John said in earlier post the flywheel may have been machined too much at some time that will cause you to run out of travel on the throw out. the way you bought this LR you don't know if the clutch was working before , this may be the reason the previous owner stopped driving it.
I think you need to take the assembly ( flywheel , clutch & pressure plate ) along with securing bolts to a Clutch specialist & get the whole lot checked out . Then you can cross off the clutch assembly as the problem & start looking at linkages / throw out fork & adjustment.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

Joe 1st photo is correct, this is from my S1 workshop manual shows very clear.

Attachment 162199Attachment 162200
I know the pressure plate is different to yours but assembly is the same. If you put it in the wrong way the clutch will hit on the flywheel securing bolts. as John said in earlier post the flywheel may have been machined too much at some time that will cause you to run out of travel on the throw out. the way you bought this LR you don't know if the clutch was working before , this may be the reason the previous owner stopped driving it.
I think you need to take the assembly ( flywheel , clutch & pressure plate ) along with securing bolts to a Clutch specialist & get the whole lot checked out . Then you can cross off the clutch assembly as the problem & start looking at linkages / throw out fork & adjustment.

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i have a heavey duty fly wheel as new if yours is not up to scracth

Thanks to all suggestions as usual, wanted to try one last thing before anything else so in went the gearbox and with the gearstick off i can actually see down into the inside of the box. Fitted the clutch plate in the correct way round and bolted up. 1950Landy I am assuming this vehicle was running at some time in its past and stopped due to engine problems not gearbox related. Flywheel could have been shaved but guessing unlikely. just assuming here...

1. gearbox back in 2nd time round

2. pics hard to see but this is when the top hat sleeve is rearwards to the car as far back as it can go.

3. as far forward it can go, i think from memory it only moves 30mm forward - at this point it touches the fingers not enough to push into the fingers

4. here is a pic with a large screwdriver showing the gap and movement of the top hat sleeve.

so my issue seems to be at the end of its stroke (pedal push with pedal disconnected so no linkage issues to consider) it is just beginning to touch the fingers. tried couple of times moving the cross shaft into diff teeth to no avail. used a grip to force the cross shaft to move sleeve closer but has run out of twist when unconnected to the foot pedal.

should the top hat sleeve be sitting that approx 30mm closer to the fingers so when cross shaft rotates it straight away engages with the fingers? Begs the question could something like a real thick washer be placed in front of the shaft/top hat sleeve to take up the gap?

The tophat section should be almost touching the fingers, with the free play here represented by 3/4" pedal movement. If the problem is not in the external linkage, it will almost certainly be the incorrect setting of the release fork shaft relative to the fork. (see manual for setting procedure) As a rough approximation to perhaps save pulling the gearbox, the hole in the shaft should be horizontal with the pedal fully up - if the top hat is not almost touching the fingers with this position, the shaft is incorrectly installed.

I have just been through the process of getting the top hat clearance correct
As a start point yours seems a long way out of whack I think John is right about actuator shaft being out on the splines. I found very little movement of the crank arm from the slave cylinder equated to a lot of movement at the top hat, following this train of thought is the slave cylinder push rod correct or adjusted correctly there is also a return spring on crank arm.
If you are out of adjustment on the push rod try a slightly longer one a bolt would do at a pinch to see if this is the problem.
Good luck it’s a great feeling when you get it sorted there is also adjustments to master cylinder push rod to consider too once you get top hat in correct position

Cheers Paul

IIRC the fingers on the pressure plate are also adjustable. I'm not sure of the amount of adjustment available, probably not sufficient to make enough difference but could this be contributing to the problem?

1. found this in my LR parts catalogue. If TO1 enters TO9 then this is different looking to mine even though it says suits S1, 2-2a.

Or is this T01 inside the box (behind the scenes so to speak). Are we suggesting T01 is in the wrong position inside the box to cause my problems?

Xtreme - the press plate does have adjustments but guessing doubt it will be enough to close the approx 30mm gap required.

Bemm52 - i think yours is a diff set up to the S1, points taken though. I had removed the cross shaft and was turning the inner shaft by hand and vice grips to max turns left to right to rule out linkage issues.

JDNSW - is the actuator shaft easy to change in the box if this is the problem, didn't really want to pull the gearbox apart.

1-2. cross shaft with pins inserted one nearest the inner box (horizontal position) and then the 2nd outer box (in vertical position) then the bolt (3) for the shaft nearest the pedal (vertical position), 3 in total in their correct orientation i think

3. this is the best position and i can get some bounce back from the press plate springs just touching and pressing in. i have disconnected the spring for the clutch to pull back into normal position. you can see how little it presses into the fingers and then has bounced back. so there is some minimal touching of the fingers in this position

I'd say it is fairly clear that the shaft is in the wrong spline - the shaft appears to be in the right position relative to the external linkage, which means it has to be either the wrong spline, or, an outside chance, the adjustment of the levers on the pressure plate. Again, the adjustment of these is detailed in the manual, but I think it is very unlikely they are that far out - today it is commonplace to replace rather than repair the pressure plate, so it is unlikely they have been moved.. The other possibility is a completely worn out driven plate, the pressure plate securing bolts are loose, or, just possibly, the flywheel has had too much machined off it.

Joe , looking at Paul's last post in Holden Powered Series LR's (Holden2a "Opal") the fingers on his clutch are much higher than the fingers in the photo of your clutch . This I suspect is were your problem may be . If the fingers are too low the throw out will run out of travel. I will try to scan the page out of my S1 workshop manual for you , having trouble with scanner since windows last upgrade.
Attachment 162252Attachment 162253Attachment 162254Attachment 162255 Sorry not very clear , but scanner will only produce a copy that is too large to post even if I reduce it ( I hate Windows 10 upgrades) Had to take photo's with camera. Off to computer shop next week if they have reopened to get this sorted until Windows next upgrade.