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Top hat turning could not have driven the output any more than the input shaft turning - the input shaft turns whenever the clutch is driving. I think it must have been the oil dragging. Only alternative would be the bearing between the input shaft and the gearbox mainshaft dragging.
1. Having a break from the gearbox dramas and moved onto something simple today. fitted a rubber strip for the bonnet to rest on, riveted on and better supports the bonnet as it rests on the radiator support panel.
I bought the wrong style gearbox main knob which is not a screw on type which were very expensive, and have a push on style - trying to see how i can make this work. Tried to find a nut for the gear shaft with its thread but were too large for the smaller diameter hole in base of my gearstick knob to slide into. still thinking about ideas for this one.
Pretty certain that the thread on the lever is BSF. What you need might be what I did with my 110 - it had a rubber bushed knob that pushed onto the lever, which was threaded. So I found a nut that fitted the lever, turned it down to fit the knob, leaving a thin bit of hex to turn it by, and glued it in. Another nut enables you to lock it in place.
Of course, if you have plenty of money, I believe you can get new reproduction knobs.
I could print you up a gear knob on my 3d printer. What is the diameter of the gearstick? Threaded or not?Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
Got a pic of the style you have/need?
Cheers,
Chris.
Thank you for your offer cjc_td5 but will see how i go.
1. went to supercheap and got some new rubber hoses for the radiator, the ones i had were old so replaced with new ones yet to be fitted, one of them is a bit long but they had no short ones and don't think i can cut them down to size as there wont be somewhere to put the jubilee clips on them which is a flat surface as is with the ends as they are now
2. my gearstick is threaded not sure of the exact size nor how to measure it
3. my new gear knob with the white lettering coming off already - cheap rubbish imitations
4. tried to find a nut to suit but was too big as the gap between the two is so small doubt a nut could fit once rounded down with much steel left, so decided to try with some silicone for now and let set and see if this will hold if not another option to be looked at.
You may have luck fixing the gear knob on with something rigid like Araldite? At least if it doesn't work you could just cut or file away the glue without damaging the threads.
Looks like that silicone may not work, seems loose after some hours. Will let it set overnight and re check fitment tmwr.
1. that damn clutch, gearbox would just not go in after 3-4 times fitting and removal this time it wasn't going to go in, so out it came again. I thought the clutch friction plate had moved but first removed all the bolts from the back of the engine housing as some were a little bent thinking this was the cause of the box not going in.
2. then discovered inside this flywheel is a loose sliding forth and back carrier - is this the spigot bush and should it be loose like this or is mine buggard and needs replacing - how do i remove it please. I now think this was the cause of the box not going into the engine (perhaps)
3-5. made up a tool to measure the distance of the fingers from the outer edge. Noticed whilst bolted all fingers were equally spaced but now that its out its all over the place. Will re do but does the book say to adjust these fingers loose (outside) or bolted up to the flywheel?
Not captured was the hours of fun realigning the engine back into its engine mounts to secure it. Working solo is tough at times when you just need another pair of hands. So another day not much achieved. If i were to buy a new replacement pressure plate do the fingers still need to be adjusted?
pet hate is having to have a shower each day after working on the LR, and having filthy clothes.
2. Looks like the spigot bush. They are supposed to be a press fit in the flywheel. Usual way of removing them is to find or make a short (10cm) solid cylinder (hardwood will do, or metal) that is a close fit in the bush, fill the bush with grease, insert the cylinder and hit with a hammer. The pressure in the grease will force the bush out.
The requirement for the fingers is that they be equal height from the flywheel with it bolted up tight - supposed to be on a special tool, but the clutch plate will probably work.
History of my series one's i have owned over the years, these are in a book i made from pictures i had taken way back when ...
1. Bought this S1 from Gosford area from memory many many many years ago, what a gem
2. S1 80inch which i should of kept, priceless now. cannot remember collecting it from anywhere but somehow had it, not sure of year.
3. remember collecting this one with my late father south coast Eden area perhaps, in my D2 towing back home stopped to take photo along the way back home. Best thing was a farmer parted with her for free. another beauty.
which brings me to my current project which has been 3 years in the making. oh the memories. [smilebigeye] hope you enjoy as much as I
Just ordered a new replacement pressure plate 9inch from Aust, gearstick knob from uk and throttle linkage to complete accelerator connections.
1. Needed to drill a suitable hole for this ball to be secured by nut in this position
2. Red line outlines where the connection needs to be between the other linkages and the final piece for the carburettor
3. ordered a new 2inch throttle linkage to complete the accelerator connections, hopefully it will all work out fine. lets see when it arrives. that lower ball pivots under so not sure it will reach max acceleration in this position, hoping it will. cable accelerator would have been cheaper, but this is using more of the original fixings as possible.