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Rear main seals are netorious for leaking on Holden motors. If it is leaking it will be a RWC isue foe you. There are products you can buy to add to the engins oil that soften the seals so they seal better , they may help . We bought one called Liquid Intelligence for son inlaws Commodores , seams to have fixed it . It is expensive though . There is enough in the can to do 2 to 3 motord depending on the capasity , so I am going to try it in my 80" engine , gear box & transfer case.
1. sick of waiting around and not finding any suitable seat back brackets so it was time to make my own, slightly bigger but will do till i find some originals one day
2. seats all fitted now, just needs some more suitable bolts nuts to accommodate the larger U shape alum panels on the back of the seat
3. here it is all bolted up so technically all seats are done yay
4. next step was to get a suitable washer for the speedo cable and make a cut to run the cable thru and a hole to secure in position
5. worked well except cannot find a suitable screw, tried a few old ones of the LR but need to keep searching so that i can secure the speedo cable properly
6. finally this is the size tubing i will buy to have one last go at the exhaust system
also filled the TC with gear oil, handbrake is giving me some grief to sort out, slowly coming to an end
Have you ever thought of putting an ad in the 'wanted' section ?Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
.W.
1. top of the handbrake is this the correct orientation for all the bits n pieces needed to make it work
2. also is there a spring inside the push button for the handbrake as what pushes the button back - mine has no spring inside the arm
3. handbrake lower arm - finally this nut i have loosened with the dot, trying to rotate in direction of the arrow but it wont move or turn, nut is loose but does not allow the arm to rotate to align?? what am i missing here??
Attachment 164320This drawing shows correct position of the catch No 17, it has to mesh with the ratchet N07. The button is screwed n to the Plunger rod No4 & there is a spring under it . The spring will probably need replacing due to rust. I think you will find all the threads are seized including the piece you are trying to turn. you would be best to pull the handbrake off put it in some CRC or similar for a few days to penetrate the threads . You may need to heat things up to get them to turn , then dismantle the whole unit clean up & oil / grease all the bits then re assemble before bolting it back onto the vehicle.
1. Not much to report other then bought some 2m of steel tubing (pipe) to suit - to make a exhaust system and be done with the exhaust system. Shouldn't be too hard a job as i have the pipe bender, pretty straight forward really but never made one before so lets see how it turns out.
Once this is sorted then i can fit the pass side mudguard and get a better look of the end result of this build.
1. did a few bends to get the pipe sitting close to where i want it, it does sit very close to its best location but need to bend the tail end up more just would do with another pair of hands so need to put some blocks to rest the tail end up higher in its final position then bend some more. engine end seems good so far. [bigwhistle]
2. this is what i have to use to secure the engine end
3. and here it is the engine end not welded up yet but seems to be a good attempt so far [bigwhistle]
welding will need to be air tight if this is to work, if i can get the engine end done first then can play around with joining this to the intermediate exhaust. so far no stuff ups and looking good. [biggrin]
1. ok the exhaust held in position which looks good to me, all lines up pretty well for an exhaust
2. bottom run enough clearance for the chassis and body so lining up ok here to
3. now bolted up to see if everything is ok - started the car and did feel some air coming out the sides, the gasket is like a gauge and will let air through so thinking will block the rear end off so no air leaks or escapes
4. the other end chopped and just needs to be aligned and then welded together, will do this last i think
5. wanted to weld the left flange but the gap between it and the exhaust is to big so need to make a fill in for the rear to weld in
6. marked out and making another flange to hold the lot together and hopefully not leak. need to cut out the inner circle and the two bolt holes.
Not pretty at all, but its getting there and seems like it may just work if all my welds are spot on.
1-3. more exhaust work completed, made up that template flange to secure from behind to close off the gaps between the flange and the exhaust so tack welded together and then fitted on as a trial fitment, looks horrible but it works. will need to be smoothed down and sanded to a better finish but you get the idea. looks to be actually working for the moment.
should i use some sort of gasket glue on the inside of the flange to help better seal the exhaust to the manifold, that inner gauze type seal seems to let air through which defeats its purpose.
this here is a copy of my flange, not sure why it allows air to pass through if its an exhaust sealing flange
Platinum Exhaust Flange Gasket - EFG610 | Supercheap Auto
I used this stuff smeared it all over the gasket washer and bolted it up to manifold there are others if you google exhaust sealant
Attachment 164396
You’ve inspired me a pipe benders going to be on my Xmas list
Cheers Paul
