Shackle bolts on the Series 1 should be BSF thread, but it is highly likely that these have been replaced at some time (together with the shackle plates) by the later UNF threaded bolts.
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Shackle bolts on the Series 1 should be BSF thread, but it is highly likely that these have been replaced at some time (together with the shackle plates) by the later UNF threaded bolts.
[QUOTE=shamirj;3024623]
4. might try the local bolt shop to see if they can match this one - i know i shouldn't hammer them in cause the shackle is threaded but hoping its the right thread on the bolt.QUOTE]
You won't get them from a bolt shop, they would have been specifically made for Land Rover.
As John mentioned, they may have been changed to the later UNF bolts which are cheap from UK suppliers but you need the shackle plates as well.
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There are different length bolts so browse the Paddocks site, same with the shackle plates, different front & rear of spring also different front & rear springs.
Colin
just post the bolt to me and i will have jimQuote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
I've got a few shackle bolts somewhere in the shed, left over from my camper build.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
If you measure the shackle bolt (length, diameter, plus threads per inch) and post on here, I may one to match.
What brackets are you missing for the seat backs? Cheers
First of all thanks to all for suggestions and offers of help, much appreciated.
Re the shackle bolt, i think i will need to remove the shackle or get under the car to see what bolt is required - i may even have some spares somewhere in the shed - just need time to look around.
1. I needed a cowl for the radiator to blow the air into the radiator so when i cut up the old support panel i was able to use some of this to make a side cowl. fitted and bolted up seems to do the work ok for this pass side.
2. almost looks original drilled new holes in the radiator side panels to accomodate
3. all in place and finished pass side, bonnet sitting nicely in place and inline with the front panel
4. driver side is bit tight and so decided to put a L shape bracket to hold everything in place and allowing enough room to clear the radiator cap and let the hood sit properly all lined up. Just also put a hose on the radiator overflow to drip down - do I need to connect this to a overflow bottle or is it fine with a tube hanging out the side as is.
Just love starting her up and just sitting in it, in idle in the garage and playing with the gears rocking back and forth till i get the brakes done, sounds loud without the exhaust but love it all the same.
1. not much achieved but got to sewing today and did the last remaining seat back (middle one) sewn up - here half way thru. gave up on the glue which did not hold so only needed to sew one seat and done now. this sewn section is at the bottom of the seat back and will not be seen. [smilebigeye]
2. complete just need to locate the missing bracket for the rear of this seat and then can fit. Happy to report all 6 seats (backs and bottoms) are done now yay [bigsmile1]
1. had some cut out left over aluminium which i thought to use up for the top section of the radiator support panel
2. some trimming later fitted into position, not the best job but it works and easy to remove, really there to help push the air from the electric fan thru the radiator and not escape thru the sides
3. just another view of the top panel and for now completed
1. ok time for some more work on the S1 - fuel tank drain plug after cleaning up, did have some tape on the plug which i removed and lightly sanded the bronze washer so that all was clean before reinstalling, used the new gas tape on thread and seemed to have worked well for now, no fuel leaks
2. this was the first process of draining the fuel in the tank, did pour it all back into the tank and no leaks
3. bolted up the intermediate exhaust pipe and not good its the wrong one
4. to have the muffler sitting straight as in this shot the exhaust needs to angle to the floor - i was told that they did send me the wrong exhaust (intermediate) pipe though did look to fit at first glance
5. here is the angle of the exhaust - so not sure whether to just go to a muffler shop or try and re order the correct exhaust and fit myself? Would save me the headache but cause another re getting a car trailer and running around for the day to have the works done outside
6. noticed the oil level on the dipstick is slightly high and had a little oil on the floor - this hole at the base of the bellhousing - is this for this purpose to drain excess oil out? might drain some excess oil or will it just drip out?
On another note - connected the elec fan to the ignition switch coming to the distributor and when i turn off the ignition it does not shut down immediately as if residual charge volts etc is powering the distributor whilst the fan rotates acting as a alternator? Might move the elec fan wire to the ignition switch itself see what happens then? Update just did this connected straight to the ignition switch still doing the same thing ie after turning off the engine continues to idle for a few seconds more???
The drip here means there is oil in the clutch housing, which is not supposed to have any oil in it. The crankshaft seal should stop even an overfilled engine from transferring oil here, but the input shaft on the gearbox only has a scroll to pump the oil back in, so if the gearbox is overfilled it will get in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj