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1. rear tub complete, thank the lord
2-3. chassis painting in cold gal, not sure why i am painting this again but had run out of the silver paint and had no code plus two coats would be better i guess, but it does mean painting the entire chassis (what a job). painted all the easy bits exposed for now but will need to put in some longer hours to complete the chassis and the rear tub will need to come off again. jeez one step fwd two steps back...
1-2 tub removal and seat base all removed to make way for some new paint, was easy enough as i had all new bolts and nuts but what a pain. Hate doing a job twice.
The original silver paint looked more like gal, this newer cold gal looks to me like putty spray or undercoat. I don't want to have to go over it again but will see how it looks once all of it is painted in cold gal. cheers
Great work but I do have a general question. Like you have and I have, every one treats the chassis with with some care - clean, primer, gal, good paint etc - but generally a chassis rust from the inside and this is rarely treated with anything.
In the past I have placed chassis on a slope and sent lots and lots of high pressure water through from the front to wash out all the crude inside and then let it dry for a week then passed a plastic hose through with fish oil spraying out the end - not sure if effective or not. Have considered doing the same with cold gal etc but never have.
So I am interested if you have done anything about the inside of the chassis in addition to cold galvanising and painting etc.
Thanks
Garry
On my 80" I used a fire hose to wash out all the years of dirt & grass from mice living inside the chassis. I was lucky enough with my business to have elrctric craines in all the buildings so was able to leave hanging to drain out over the weekend. The chassis was then put out in the summer sun to completly the following week . I then fed a sprinkler hose through the chasis with a mister nozle in the end & slowly drew it back through the chassis spraying Fish Oil . With fish oil you don't need to remove all the rust ( but it helps if you can) you just need to give it a good coating to stop the air from getting to the steel to stop the rust growing . Fish oil never completly dry's so will stay flexable. With cold galv you need atleast a two & half blast for the zinc to key to the steel , with out that it will flake leaving bare metal & it is very hard to get the inside clean enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
Owning a steel fabrication business I spoke to the galvinizers about galv & was told they did ont advise it a there was no way of knowing if the inside was clean enough for the galv & there would probly be about 80% coverage if I was lucky & I was best to do it the way I bid on there advice. In the 35 years since I restored it there has been no sign of any rust in the chassis.
One other point , if you do cold galv or zinc coat & want to top coat in body colour you will need to etch prome after the cold galv or zinc so top coat will stick & not flake off.
The main thing you need to do is exclude the air to trevent rust . If you put nails in water they will rust if you put oil on the serface of the water preventing the air from getting to the nails they wont rust!
1. hard to see in the pic but more paint was applied.
my problem is I'm wanting to keep the engine and g'box on the chassis but painting around it can be difficult. thanks for the question but no, not doing anything inside the chassis other then a wash. the cold gal was not the finish i was looking for looks bland but will have to do, my original paint of silver looked more like gal. pulling the engine and gearbox out would add to more time and somewhat extra cost (hire equipment).
When we were doing repairs on galv & needed to blend in a silver colour over cold galv the closest colour was called Aluminium , it can be bought in a can to brush on or spray with a gun or in pressure packs can. I would have thought the chassis would have been black , only the 48's had a silver chassis , than early S1's had body colour before going to black.
1. new battery so no more excuses now to see if i can start her up...
2. starter motor, one cable i think is the positive and the earth is the chassis? should i need another cable here somewhere?
how else can i attempt a start of the starter motor please, in terms of wiring to assess the starter motor condition. Not sure this is a holden or LR starter?
1-4. pics of the starter motor, looks to me its a LR starter not a holden, has made in Aust, and is dated 1969. spins freely no problems BUT there is no solenoid attached?
wonder if mine had a separate solenoid for the starter elsewhere in the wiring harness i removed, may need to look around, will try to connect to battery and see if this starter spins at all or not.
On a holden starter motor you need power to the small terminal on the solonoid to energise the solonoid which will engage the bendex with the ring gear bedore the starter motor will turn . The power supply to the small terminal should come from the starter button . This power needs to be disconnet once the engine is running so solonoid can disengage the bendex from the ring gear.
By shorting scross from the power terminal on the solonoid to the small terminal with a screw driver this will make the starter motor work BUT BE CAREFULL YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY FUEL LEAKS FOR THE SPARKS TO START A FIRE!!!!
Series 1 did not uses a solenoid. If trying the starter on a bench, ensure it is well secured - it should start suddenly and the wholle thing it likely to take off.