Thread: Clutch problem on Series 1 80", 1956

The two pins connecting the pedal shaft to the clutch withdrawal shaft are by far the most likely source of the problem you have. The system, to work, must have very little free play (no) here. Replacing the hardened pins with bolts is never a good idea, as even if the bolts do not shear in two, they will deform and give lost motion. If you must use bolts temporarily, use very hard ones such as allen screws, and they need to match the holes.

Also, check the joining sleeve for damage - they have been known to split, and again, they cannot be satisfactorily replaced by a home made tube as they are hardened.

There are other possible issues inside the gearbox or the clutch housing, but they are unlikely to be the issue.

Thanks, John, for your thoughts. Yes, there is some play or distortion in the bolts that apparently have been substituted for hardened pins in the cross shaft. However, pretty much most of the pedal travel is effectively transfered to the rotation of the cross shaft. I guess a logical approach would be to sort that play, and see if that rectifies the problem.
I'm wondering, though, if that doesnt fix it, what else might be the cause. Whether its relevant to this, I would occasionally get a 'screeching' sound from the clutch, which would cease the moment I depressed the clutch pedal. Might any other Series 1 people be able to offer some ideas?
Again, in anticipation, thanks.
Tim.

Iclutch link.jpgS1 Clutch linkage.jpgS1 throwout.jpg

I would think that something is wrong in the hardened tube & pins circled in blue in my 1st photo, unless something major has gone wrong with the pressure plate & it has collapsed . It doesn't take much wear in the holes & pins to cause a big difference in the peddle operation. I replaced the tube & pins on my 80" last year , before replacing them the peddle would only go 1/2 way down & now i have full peddle travel. Also if you do replace the pins with bolts they need to be extremely hard , I fitted some bolts in mine a few years back & they only lasted for a couple of peddle operations & one sheared off. The throw out bearing mechanism is pretty fool proof & is splined to the shaft , I think something else would brake before the splines tore out.

Apart from what I said about the coupling, and 1950Landy saying virtually the same thing, there is nothing that is at all likely to go wrong with the release mechanism - while a bearing failure is possible, it is extremely unlikely as it runs inside the gearbox and is well lubricated. The only other possibilities are that the clutch driven plate has failed in a way that prevents it fully disengaging, such as a lining buckling, or the adjustment has come loose on one of the release levers on the pressure plate. While possible, these are unlikely.

And, I assume you know that it is possible to view the clutch mechanism inside the bell housing by removing the gearlever support, which uncovers a small window.

Tim, is your Land rover an 80" (48-53) or an 88" (56-58) ?
.W.

Many thanks JDNSW, WIZARD, & BSF. Problem sorted!
Yesterday I removed the floor boards so I could get a good look, and yes there was the remains of a bolt, apparently in place of the hardened pin, through the connecting shaft where it enters the clutch housing. I found a similar size pin, and as a check, placed it back in position, and the clutch pedal once again allowed engagement of gears.
My plan is now to source the two hardened pins, and overhaul the bushes for the clutch and brake pedals. Does anyone have a recommendation for sourcing these parts, hopefully in Victoria? Also, what is involved in replacing the pedal bushes? Do they need to be pressed out, and back in again, or can that be done carefully on the work bench?
Once again, thanks guys, for your help.
Tim.
ps In answer to WIZZARD, yes it is an 88".

Originally Posted by Tim Patkin

Many thanks JDNSW, WIZARD, & BSF. Problem sorted!
Yesterday I removed the floor boards so I could get a good look, and yes there was the remains of a bolt, apparently in place of the hardened pin, through the connecting shaft where it enters the clutch housing. I found a similar size pin, and as a check, placed it back in position, and the clutch pedal once again allowed engagement of gears.
My plan is now to source the two hardened pins, and overhaul the bushes for the clutch and brake pedals. Does anyone have a recommendation for sourcing these parts, hopefully in Victoria? Also, what is involved in replacing the pedal bushes? Do they need to be pressed out, and back in again, or can that be done carefully on the work bench?
Once again, thanks guys, for your help.
Tim.
ps In answer to WIZZARD, yes it is an 88".

hi tim iam also looking for the 2 pinsif you find a supplier can you please let me know regards jim

The pins are the same up to the end of Series 2a production, and should be readily available from any of the suppliers of Series parts such as Four Wheel Drives. Also, you could give Fred Smith a call.
Alternatively, measure the diameter and length required, and go to any fastener specialist.