Thread: 2.0L engine rebuild?

My guess if it has that much blowby iit will have worn or broken rings causing the plugs to oil up . You won't need hardened valve seats as they already are. To get the pistons out you will need to diismantle the bottom end so you will be able to check the bearings . You need to check the compression with a couple of squrts of oil in the cylinders if it increases the compression then the rings are a problem.

Originally Posted by 1950landy

My guess if it has that much blowby iit will have worn or broken rings causing the plugs to oil up . You won't need hardened valve seats as they already are. To get the pistons out you will need to diismantle the bottom end so you will be able to check the bearings . You need to check the compression with a couple of squrts of oil in the cylinders if it increases the compression then the rings are a problem.

Thanks. A set of wet compression tests will be this weekend's task.

That sounds like my 2.0 55 years ago.

I put in new rings and big end bearings and did a valve grind, deglazed the cylinder walls, nothing else. Fixed all the issues.

Only subsequent problem was, driving from Sydney back to Longreach, about half way started getting severe pre-ignition. Pulling the plugs showed that the centre electrodes had worn to needle points. Fortunately, I still had with me the old plugs that had kept oiling up, put them in, no further problems.

You used to be able to buy a product I think was called New Metal that came in a tube like a tooth paste tube , you put 1/4 in each cylinder then left so it run down the sids of the pistons . You then had to drive the vehicle hard to get the rings to push out against the bore . I used it in my 80 " back when I 1st bought it , I was having to put a pint of oil in it after each run , after using the product the vehicle went another 6 years with out having to top up the oil . Unlike other products that make the same clam it did not gum up the rings , all the rings were free & the groves were clean. It worked wert the rings were stuck in the groves or the bore saw badly glassed, would not work if rings were broken.
Now the down side to this story . I don't think you can buy New Metal any more it is like most products that work it is no longer available.

The compression test numbers are in.

Dry compression pressures are 93, 90, 93 & 85.

Wet compression pressures are 115, 120, 122 & 113.

All compression readings would take 2-3 cycles to come up max pressure, which from my reading indicates poor ring compression also.

Spark plugs 1 & 2 are visibly sootier than 3 & 4 which are comparatively dry and brown.

Looks like it may be engine out time...

You can do rings and bearings without removing the engine.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

You can do rings and bearings without removing the engine.

The rear main oil seal needs attention and the clutch should be checked. It could all do with a coat of paint also.

Well 9am saw this.
20180930_091046 m.jpg

By 5pm it was this!
20180930_170002 m.jpg

Out with you, bastard! That was a mission without a bolted gearbox cross member. I had to take off all of the handbrake assembly and flange and then ended up having to release one side of the bulkhead and lift it by a couple of inches to give clearance for the gearbox to fit through the tunnel. Will have to weigh up installing the gearbox split and connecting insitu vs lifting the bulkhead so the engine and transmission can be reinstalled in one piece....

Now it looks like I have a few hours of cleaning ahead of me...