80" Clutch linkage

**Rick Fischer** · 2nd January 2022, 02:29 PM

Hiyas all

After mating engine and GB, did hook up clutch a la WS manual but it would not operate due to much lost motion in the operating shaft through the bell housing. The pins and the piece if drilled pipe connecting it all together had worn severely. (I hadn't looked too critically after the whole transmission was returned after rebuild.) Anyway .............:

Removed all the bits, drilled out the one end of the pipe to take 5/16" pin and ditto the shaft, by product being a much bigger bearing surface, clutch shaft and pipe has virtually no backlash.. Other end of pipe connection had to remain 1/4" pin because of clutch shaft in the bell housing.

Pipe connection was repaired with filler rod and re drilled to 1/4" and new pin manufactured. All were re-assembled to chassis and bell housing with very little rotary backlash.

However, when all coupled up with the pedal and bell-cranks there would appear to still be a lot of lost motion. On the first picture notice how compressed the spring is and how much thread there is at the bell-crank end. While I have the pressure plate and the throw-out seeming to work there will be little "life" adjustment left. That is with new clutch and pressure plates.

Third photo shows pedal height resting throw out bearing on pressure plate. It is pretty close to the 20mm specified in WS manual, and after a bit of fiddling and diddling with connecting rods I think I'll make that but no adjustment left. ?????????

IMG_0150.jpg IMG_0153.jpg IMG_0151.jpg

Questions

1. in the first photo:

Note the amount of thread already used in the adjustment; and

what purpose does the spring shown serve? Further adjustment will simply cause it to be "spring bound". It appears to serve no purpose. In drawings of later model it is omitted.

2. To compensate for the lost motion I could drill the shaft to take a pin around 30 degrees past vertical so that the shaft crank hangs vertical or a bit fwd of vertical at that point. Comment?

What might be wrong?

While I can make it all work or work better, Should I? Is this the way they are/were?

Cheers

Rick F

**B.S.F.** · 2nd January 2022, 04:35 PM

Don't you have to lengthen the rod on an 80" to take up the slack ?
It is possible to fine adjust the cross shaft with the gearbox installed.. However this is only possible if your cross shaft has been recently installed and no ridge has formed around the pin-hole and your shaft has got the fine splines. Remove the clutch linkage.
Remove the blanking rubber on the L/H of the bell housing.
Remove the cross shaft cover.
Carefully slide the cross shaft through till about 14-15 mm of splines are showing .The shaft should now be free of the splines in the fork. Don't pull the shaft out further than you have to, or you will drop the spacer (washer)
Carefully turn the shaft to the desired position and push it back in. A bit fiddly but it can be done, Or with a firm grip and a piece of pipe you could twist the lever ever so slightly.
.W.

**JDNSW** · 2nd January 2022, 04:40 PM

I am not certain that the 80" is the same, but later vehicles have a spline on the gearbox end of the shaft where it goes into the release fork, and it is really easy to get this in the wrong position, resulting in the sort of issues you see.

The other point to take note of is that the connecting tube and the pins are all hardened, and replacing any of the bits with mild steel replacements will result in a very short life. This applies especially to the pins.

**5380** · 12th January 2022, 04:41 PM

Originally Posted by B.S.F.

Don't you have to lengthen the rod on an 80" to take up the slack ?
It is possible to fine adjust the cross shaft with the gearbox installed.. However this is only possible if your cross shaft has been recently installed and no ridge has formed around the pin-hole and your shaft has got the fine splines. Remove the clutch linkage.
Remove the blanking rubber on the L/H of the bell housing.
Remove the cross shaft cover.
Carefully slide the cross shaft through till about 14-15 mm of splines are showing .The shaft should now be free of the splines in the fork. Don't pull the shaft out further than you have to, or you will drop the spacer (washer)
Carefully turn the shaft to the desired position and push it back in. A bit fiddly but it can be done, Or with a firm grip and a piece of pipe you could twist the lever ever so slightly.
.W.

BSF,

I think you have hit the nail on the head. The thrust bearing fork is possibly a spline or two shy of the thrust bearing. The rear arm appears to be at the same angle as on my 8o", but I have plenty of adjustment left on the pull rod. Hopefully the spline cooperates. If you can, mark the fork/shaft spline positions with a paint pen so that you know how far you are moving it so don't get mixed up looking it upside down through a hole! It is a fairly fine spline, so it wont need to be moved too far.
Good luck.

**Rick Fischer** · 17th January 2022, 02:54 PM

Originally Posted by B.S.F.

................ Or with a firm grip and a piece of pipe you could twist the lever ever so slightly.
.W.

Bit of heat bit of twist, job done :0) Easy peazy.

Question where did you inherit those pipe (round) steel vice jaws? Can't find any anywhere, have to keep looking in the markets.

Cheers

Rick F

**B.S.F.** · 17th January 2022, 05:49 PM

You're correct, I inherited it from my father who was a plumber It was made in Switzerland by
FABRIK REISHAUER, ZURICH & RASTATT DECO
.W.

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