Thread: Easy one person Brake bleeding technique that actually works for Series Land Rovers

Hi all,
I often read that bleeding the brakes on a Series Land Rover is amongst the hardest and most frustrating operations you can do as part of a restoration.
I have a 1953 Series 1 80” and I bled my brakes following installing all new brake pipes throughout, in less than 20 minutes using a simple technique that seems to overcome the problem of air trapped in the high points of the Land Rovers brake pipes.

The way I do it involves using a largish (30 to 50ml) Syringe (from a pharmacy or medical supply company) and using a length of small diameter flexible hose to go over the outside of the bleeder, or, if you have access to them, a tapered Pipette tip makes the job even easier. This what I use because we have thousands of them in our Lab.

The trick that I find works is to push brake fluid in THROUGH the bleeder on the wheel cylinder and back towards the Reservoir. I know this is the opposite of the normal method, but trust me, it works.
Doing it the traditional way (pumping the master cylinder and releasing a small amount of fluid from each wheel cylinder each time), in my view, does not create enough volume or flow to dislodge air trapped in the High points of the pipes.
However by pushing a large syringe full of brake fluid in through the bleeder at high speed, sends a substantial stream brake fluid through the wheel cylinder, up through the pipes, into the master cylinder and ending up in the Reservoir, where the air bubbles are free to escape. I have found that pushing 3 or 4 Syringes full of fluid through each wheel cylinder does a really good job.

So step by step.
Syringe & Pipette.jpgGet your syringe. Any size will work, but larger work faster, because it creates more brake fluid moving at higher speed.

Pipette cutting.jpg If you have access to pipette tips, cut a pipette tip to fit over the syringe tip. Standard size is around 4mm.

Pipette fitting.jpgI them push this onto the syringe, and trim the other end to fit snugly into the hole in the bleeder.

How fill the syringe with brake fluid, fit the tip, push the tip into the hole of the bleeder to make an air-tight seal, crack the bleeder (a small amount only is needed)
Now forcibly push the syringe's plunger to force brake fluid through the bleeder, while listening for bubble in the brake reservoir. Tighten the bleeder, withdraw the syringe, and refill with brake fluid.
You can choose to do the same wheel cylinder several times in a row or move to the next furthest cylinder from the brake reservoir. Do this sequence a couple of times.
When you can no longer hear any bubbles arriving at the reservoir, you known that cylinder is done. Another benefit of this approach is it’s a one person technique, and does not require the help of anyone to pump the brakes. Its super easy to do if the wings and body panels are off the vehicle, but it can be still be done down with everything in place as well.

NOTE: Please don’t forget to check the reservoir level if you are adding new fluid with each refill, as it will soon overfill if you are not careful and will make a hell of a mess on your garage floor and to your paintwork.

Over the years that I have used this method on all sorts of cars, I have got into the habit of refilling the syringe from the Reservoir, so you are re-using the same volume of fluid, so it will never overflow or run dry. You can choose whatever refill method works best for you, depending on if you are bleeding with nice new fluid or you are replacing old fluid with new.
Wash the syringe and the rubber plunger out well in warm soapy water and put it into your tool box, for next time.

Good luck.
Jeff

Used that method on MTB's for years,its the only way to do them.

My brother did the S1 last with the help his son,i dont know how he did it,but the brakes work as they should..
One thing he always does is puts an approprietly sized block of wood under the brake pedal,so the pedal doesnt go further than it normally does,therefore stopping the inners of the master cylinder going further than they uaually go and damaging seals.
He does this on a routine bleed to get rid of the old fluid.
It may not work on a full bleed after repairs.