Reply With QuoteI can't see a problem with that. You might find there's a little slack or wobble if the nuts run out of thread before they tighten, but maybe not. Still, it's not as if you'll be driving it.... I hope.
Master
Hi Land Rover Series Enthusiasts.
I need to get the brake drums and shoes off my Series 1 to get the drums skimmed and the shoes relined.
I store my vehicle on a 4 post hoist in my garage, but I only have one steel trays, so can only get one axle at a time onto good axle stands. So I was wondering if it would be safe to remove the brake drums and shoes, one wheel at a time, and then put the wheel back on, just for support, until the drums came back.? From a structural point of view, I can see no difference, as the wheel would still be bolted to the same studs, and the only real change is that the brake drums are not there to act as a backing plate.
If it was OK to bolt the wheel directly onto the axle studs without the drums being in place, I would be able to get everything off to Perth Brakes in one trip. The vehicle would just sit on the hoist until the drums and shoes were returned.
All advice appreciated.
regards
Jeff
LordRover
SubscriberI can't see a problem with that. You might find there's a little slack or wobble if the nuts run out of thread before they tighten, but maybe not. Still, it's not as if you'll be driving it.... I hope.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
TopicToaster
SupporterI've had my D2 parts shell resting on it's loose wheels for about 6 years now as I've removed the disks ... so I can't see why not too.
D2 isn't going anywhere soon, and when it's time too, I'll sort that out before moving it.
D2 wheel nuts don't thread all the way, like Tins alluded too, you're wheels may sit loosely, but as I remember series wheel nuts can thread right through the studs and possibly push the wheels further back beyond where the drums would allow.
Just make sure that they don't damage anything.
Alternatively if you have one axle suspended, you could use the wheel nuts of that axle to stop the wheels going too far in(only if the wheels would damage any exposed brake parts) by threading those nuts behind the wheels and then use the axles' wheel nuts to keep the wheels up tightly.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
RoverLord
No problems, as long as you don't accidentally put your foot on the brake. A possible issue is that you will be using a bit of thread on the studs that has not been used for decades, so it might do well to give it a touch with a wire brush.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
Thanks Gentlemen,
I feel a bit of a fool, as soon as I took the wheel and drum off, it was perfectly clear that all would be OK.
So I how have all the drums and shoes off and ready for attention next week. The studs benefited from a light squirt of WD40 so the nuts could go onto the unused threads without difficulty.
All in all, much easier and less traumatic than I had feared.
Thanks for the support and encouragement.
regards
Jeff
ChatterBox
Pack up the wheel studs with flat washers to the thickness of the brake drum, so the wheel will seat firmly.
RoverLord
I don't think that is worth the effort, as long as its just sitting still. And even if being moved I would not bother - the hub has a flat surface, and the weight is carried on the shoulder of the nuts, same as if the drum is there.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
ChatterBox
I had assumed that the thread on the stud would bottom out before the nut takes up on the wheel, so everything would be flopping about....Originally Posted by JDNSW
You would only need to pack out three studs.
RoverLord
The studs are screwed into the hub. This is certainly not an problem, I have a box trailer with Series 2 hubs and wheels and no brake drums - and no issues over the last 25years (done nearly 1000km in the last month).
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
SubscriberJohn,
I agree, there shouldn't been any problem if it the 80 isn't moved around too much. The studs are not really designed to carry the weight of the vehicle in this situation, so damage to the hubs and studs is very likely if the vehicle is moved much with no clamping force being applied. Please don't take this technical ramble as a safety lecture or criticism in any shape or form.
Strangely enough, normally the wheel studs don't carry much of the weight of the vehicle if the nuts are correctly tightened. The circular bosses on the hubs are a snug fit in the wheel centres to locate them and keep them concentric with the hubs. The wheel studs and nuts clamp the wheel horizontally to the face of the brake drum which transmits the drive from the hub to the wheel. The studs take the side forces of cornering and clamping.The tapers in the wheel stud holes and the nuts also locate the wheel correctly and aid in keep the nuts fron undoing. So technically, the hubs and brake drum faces support the vertical loads of unsprung mass of the vehicle, not the studs! That's why it's so important to ensure that the whel nuts are properly tensioned. My early Classic Range Rover with factory alloy wheels had massive locating bosses on the hubs, tight sockets and massive mating faces in the centres that made it a real a pain to remove a wheel even when the nuts were removed! I asked a Land Rover engineer about it and he explained the physics to me. Those Land Rover engineers were clever buggers! I hope this is of interest. Cheers, Mike 5380
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