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Thread: Stuck steering wheel

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5380 View Post
    As in previous suggestions, don't hit youself in the face when it finally comes off!
    good luck! 5380
    In the scenario I was talking about it usually isn't the face that gets hit...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
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  2. #22
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    Interesting. What is Lanox? Are you talking about coating the hub with it?

    I was worried about heating the cast aluminium hub too much.

    Quote Originally Posted by 5380 View Post
    I pulled one off last week that had been sitting out in the weather for many years. It was very corroded and stuck on hard! After removing the pinch bolt, which must be torally removed as it locks into the groove in the column to stop the wheel from coming off if the nut comes loose. But I guess you have already done this. First, I cleaned out all the dirt and rust in the top of the bore of the wheel to expose the splines. Heat and penetrating lube. I heat it until the Inox /Lanox (Lanox seems to work well) starts to smoke and bubble a bit, then I tapped a smooth thin tapered wedge or blunt chisel up into the clamping slot parallel to the column taking care not to bruise the alloy casting. Keep heating, cooling, spraying and tapping and wriggling the wheel and all of a sudden, off she comes! As in previous suggestions, don't hit youself in the face when it finally comes off!
    good luck! 5380

  3. #23
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    This is what I've been working with. But going to get something like a harmonic balancer puller today and make something different.
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by McBrain283 View Post
    Interesting. What is Lanox? Are you talking about coating the hub with it?

    I was worried about heating the cast aluminium hub too much.
    Lanox is one of the Inox products. Lanox contains lanolin. The Inox spray is like WD only better, and Australian I believe.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #25
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    It's off!!

    Finally got some time to spend on it this week and it came off.

    For other's information: it needed a lot more force than I would have thought - I guess that's what happens when you have a cast aluminium part fitted to a steel shaft.

    It didn't come off with one bang and then slide the rest of the way, there were a series of noisy movements and it needed the puller all the way.

    Here is the setup I used. The base of the yoke is very thin and soft, I guess I could have made a wooden pad or something but it is relatively undamaged.

    Thanks for the encouragement!
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  6. #26
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Thank you for completing the story!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by McBrain283 View Post
    Finally got some time to spend on it this week and it came off.

    For other's information: it needed a lot more force than I would have thought - I guess that's what happens when you have a cast aluminium part fitted to a steel shaft.

    It didn't come off with one bang and then slide the rest of the way, there were a series of noisy movements and it needed the puller all the way.

    Here is the setup I used. The base of the yoke is very thin and soft, I guess I could have made a wooden pad or something but it is relatively undamaged.

    Thanks for the encouragement!
    Just out of curiosity, which wheel shown in post #7 have you got ?
    .W.

  8. #28
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    It was the one in photo DSC05109 R.jpg

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