Looking good mate.![]()
Spent some time today with the high-pressure cleaner thru the chassis etc. I know that the Landy was used to cart dirt around a property but... what can I say.... it still comes out in bucket loads.
Degreased the fuel tank too. Thats because the fuel was well and truly off. It was green inside that tannk- it stank - but now she is as clean as a whistle. But - the tank leaks
![]()
Hi Olmate,
Saw your note about just getting a 1952 series 1, well , I just picked up a 1951 series 1 which I'll start restoring soon.
I'd like to keep in touch with you as we both proceed, my email is kurandabed@tpg.com.au
Kindest regards, Lyle
Hi there Lyle and welcome to the forum
Would love to see some pictures of your 51......and where are you based.
Wayne
G'day All, I would have as a guess Kuranda? cheers Dennis![]()
hi
That is a very common problem with older Land Rovers . I have six 80" tanks and they were all stuffed to varying degrees. I began making a new tank .. gave up - lots of work and metal skill needed . The quickest and practical solution is; a sealer . I picked out the least rusted tank.. removed the bottom mount... I unsoldered it with a torch, but be carefull.. if any trace of fumes is there .. DONT DONT use a flame .. In my case a flame was OK as the tank had been dry for decades .. it didn't blow up.
I used the caustic soda-battery charger rust removal method..
http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm
its very cheap and very effective . I half filled a large plastic wheelie bin with hot water and caustic soda... then mounted the + the electrode inside the petrol tank and the - Neg electrode on the tank itself ... let it go for a few hours .. it removes rust incredibly well . I find that Laundry soaker works well too, the caustic soda is nasty stuff and the laundry soaker isnt ... anything with sodium carbonate in it works.. its 3 bucks for a 1kg tub of laundry soaker . Apparently its NOT good to use stainless steel as your + ANODE cos it emits highly toxic stuff. And Don't use this process indoors as Hydrogen gas is there and a spark will result in a boom. You need a PLASTIC NON-conducting container .. not metal .
After a thorough clean and de-rust.. I re-attached the lower mount . I glued it on with a fibreglass filler .
I used the PPC seal kit .. but I see in restored cars magazine .. you can now buy the seal stuff in a powder form by post. .. you mix it with acetone . You use a acid wash for a final clean . As long as the tank is structurally sound e.g., not falling apart.. the sealer is the way to go .
I did two tanks together because the sealer isnt storable .. once its opened .. thats it , it goes off .
Mike
Thanks Mike.
I shall be giving that a go as the sealer is just falling out of the bottom edges of the tank. It is in good knick over all so it shall be the way to go![]()
Troy
a cheaper method of sealing tanks
use blue PVC sealer, watered down a little PVC pipe cleaner.
pour it in the tank and coat the whole inside
then let it set
I have not used it yet as all my tanks have been sound
been told it is as good or better than dear stuff.
there may be others out there with more thoughts on this subject
cheers
Ian
I have used Red-Kote and found it to be quite good.
Fuel Tank and Radiator Service - Red-KoteĀ® - Fuel Tank Liner
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