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There'll be no washing Shorty today (might get done tomorrow tho). I reckon that I have done enough for the day.:)
This is the photo of the rust I have to deal with in the bulkhead:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2008/09/91.jpg
Looks worse in the photo than it is and I reckon that I shall be able to fix it pretty well. Have taken the guards off as I will be looking for replacements :o - came off very easily and now I shall be able to get into Shorty for a real good tub under the bonnet..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/08/101.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/08/102.jpg
The rusting under the bonnet is no trouble as it seems like it will tidy up well with a brush and the right treatment :D - I am a lot happier now ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/08/103.jpg
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Good luck with the bulkhead repairs Troy; yours looks quite good compared to mine.
I have just come in from the shed doing exactly the same job and replacing the top box section. The rust in the pillars is caused by a double skin trapping moisture; it is not the most enjoyable of repairs and probably one of the hardest Land Rover bulkheads to fix, because of the curved pressings, but I should get it finished tomorrow, thank goodness :)
Cheers Charlie
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Thanks Charlie - any tips mate would be well received. :)
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Looking forward to seeing this beasty, hopfuly soon. After the baby who is over due now.
Oh well, Easo
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Hi there Troy
You have found a good starting vehicle - is complete and in reasonable condition for being found in a paddock.
All the best
PS the bulk head repairs are realitively easy if your handy with a mig welder........
Wayne
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Thanks Easo and Wayne.
And all the best with the Bub for you and the wife mate :D:D:D
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As Wayne says Troy, a MIG is handy :D
I cut the rusty bit out with an angle grinder and a thin cutting disc, but you have to be very careful of kickback of course. I took my bulkhead off and set it up on a nice high table to do the welding.
I make up the repair patch in cardboard first and when I am happy with the shape I trace around it on to 1mm cold rolled steel, which is very easy to shape. On the pillars I made the patch go to the edge where the hinges are so that the weld can be where the original one was. Be aware that the shut face side of the pillar is narrower than the wheel arch side (tapered) so the repair patch needs an angle greater than 90 degrees on it.
I make sure that the patch is a bit smaller than the hole so that the weld can penetrate to the back. I take a lot of care while tacking, to make sure that the face of the patch and the base metal is perfectly aligned, otherwise filler will be required in greater amounts than desirable.
I also got the sandblasting man to blast inside the pillars before I repaired them.
I made new captive nuts and cages and welded them in place before putting the patch in; and this time I used a 60 grit flap-disc to sand the welds down, which does a much nicer job than a grinding disc and a quicker job than the polisher/sander.
Apologies if you knew this already, but it might be useful to someone,
Cheers Charlie
P.S. I have/will post pics on the Trans Tasman site.
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Thanks mate, its all new to me and I am more than happy to get advise :D
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I pick up some new springs for the front of Shorty tomorrow (well... new=from another Landy). These shall let her sit up where she belongs and get the front axle off the bump stops ;).
Plans this week are to treat the chassis and paint it on the weekend, with the bulk head to follow. I am hanging out to get hold of better front guards and then really get into the work. Sorting out the motor before the guards go on and painting happens.
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After tidying up the front section of the chassis and treating it for rust etc during the week, I thought that I would give it a coat of green paint. She does look good but my progress has been halted for the night by the wife as we are 'going out for dinner' :( . No its alright it will give things time to dry anyway and I want a decent steak :D.
I have made a more thorough list of things that I will be needing for Shorty:
Front Guards: Both my left and right front guards are cracked and worse for wear. They have seen a few attempts over the years to be repaired but are well and truly past it now.
Bumper: I am trying very hard to straighten the one that I have, but not doing too well. It has also been welded on one end after being broken at one stage.
Tailgate: What can I say…. She is bent and has the chain hooks ripped clean out of her. I will probably try to repair this with a complete new section of alloy should I not be able to get a replacement.
D Lamps: Yeah - I know, get in line mate.
Rim: I am down one rim. This shouldn’t be too hard to find though.
Seats: I have one (that’s if you can call it a seat). The previous owner had replaced what was missing with what he called a seat.
Speedo: Mine is beyond repair as the detail on the gauge is gone completely.
Door Tops: These will be down the track a bit but I shall be looking for some in good / repairable knick.
Anyway - things are to be taken slow and steady and I want to get the front springs under it and motor running first. I have a mate coming to help me fix up the couple of rusty bits in two weeks :) that will be great :D:D:D
Once I have found some good front guards and a tailgate I will get into the painting proper (although I am now tempted to give the door bottoms and bonnet a go ;))
Once the paint dries on the front part of the chassis I shall put up a photo or two. In the meantime - I continue to watch ebay..
