Moving on nicely Troy - enjoy your steak.
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LAND ROVER SERIES ONE TAIL GATE AND REAR TUB 80 INCH - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 07-Sep-08 22:04:37 AEST)
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Moving on nicely Troy - enjoy your steak.
Did you see this?
LAND ROVER SERIES ONE TAIL GATE AND REAR TUB 80 INCH - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 07-Sep-08 22:04:37 AEST)
Paint dried now but I need some advice on the colouring. I bought Deep Brunswick Green to start with (reason being it was kill rust and went over all the prep work I did on the chassis after the 'real' rust prevention). Now that it is dry - it is way off the mark as I was wanting to get as close to Bronze Green as I could (see the rim colours).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/09/917.jpg
Is there anywhere / or any brand of paint that sells Bronze Green off the shelf; or do I have to have it mixed? Maybe the whole thing becomes Deep Brunswick Green :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/09/918.jpg
Might try to get a better photo for you lot to look at when the sun 'does' get up. This is just me checking things out at the moment and finding the colour that I want... motor needs to be done first of course.
Go to any Wattyl retail outlet and ask for the BSC ( British Standard Colour ) #24 Deep Bronze Green. The BSC code system has been around since the early 1930's . Wattyl can supply it in many forms e.g., industrial enamel or even expensive marine grade paint . Paint is overpriced generally, and if you know a friendly Panel beater business.. you may get it for trade price.
http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/bsc1931wm_1.htm
BTW that Kill rust stuff : It Isn't compatible with other industrial enamels that use GP thinners or enamel thinners .. if you try to spray over it with auto enamel, you'll get blistering . Kill Rust uses turps from memory .
Mike
Thanks Mike; very much appreciated. Looks like I have to do some homework before I get carried away with the painting bit :)
Replacement front springs are on and she is sitting up level with the back now :D... 'very' high indeed ... high enough for the front prop shaft to hit the cross member :o - I had to take it off to tighten everthing up and I shall have to either fit wedges to the front end or go to something lower ;) It does look good tho :D:D:D Photos to follow.
Well Mike - I did what you had advised me to do and (you guessed it) I have the right paint colour and am very happy now :D thanks mate ;)
Troy,
I've seen that problem before : the front prop shaft hitting the crossmember when new front springs are fitted . A local here owns a 86" .. it's a kinda hot rod with a 2.5 litre motor and range rover transmission and later axles. To make the prop shaft clear the crossmember , he just cut a small piece of the crossmember out and welded in a U or V shaped section . So the crossmember now has a small 'U' indent to clear the prop shaft .
Other than doing that .. you can use the original springs ! If they are not badly corroded , you can reset them by Hammering them.. Each spring is disassembled . Then leaf by leaf , you use a Anvil and a heavy hammer to hammer them, using the HORN of the anvil . Don't do it on a cold day as the spring metal may fracture .. its best done on a warm sunny day . Years ago, this was a common job on cars.
Good news on the paint .
Mike
Well here is the photo I should of had up yesterday. Not the best but you can see she is level now and starting to look tidy. I have brushed on some paint in front of the rear wheel etc and it is looking the goods. Paint will come later but I shall get some into the shed this week :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/09/814.jpg
And I shall be doing as Mick has suggested with the front cross member and cutting a section out of it; replacing it with a 'U' shape part. :)
You are a machine Troy! Nice work.
Planning your next vehicle yet?:D:D
I have to put new springs in my "Baby" - series 1 88.
I am interested to know what you did with the springs to cause the problem - I do know that if you put in new springs when everything is off the ground and everything is tightened up then the front does ride too high and causes the problem with the driveshaft.
So is this the issue or did you get heavier or "high lift" springs?
Thanks
Garry