Thread: 86" springs and bushes

Most of the parts you need are the same as (or interchangeable with) later Series Landrovers except, I think, the chassis bush.

The spring loaded conical top swivel bush setup may be hard to find, but everything else is readily available. The 86" does not use tracta joints like the 80".

See recommended suppliers for places to start phoning.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The spring loaded conical top swivel bush setup may be hard to find, but everything else is readily available. The 86" does not use tracta joints like the 80".

John

The conical bush can be replaced by a railko conversion, which was fitted to S2 onwards I believe. I machined the new swivel pins but I believe some companies in the UK can supply a conversion kit. Try Dunsfold,

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by chazza

The conical bush can be replaced by a railko conversion, which was fitted to S2 onwards I believe. I machined the new swivel pins but I believe some companies in the UK can supply a conversion kit. Try Dunsfold,

Cheers Charlie

That is correct, and the railko setup is definitely superior. Change is not listed in the parts book, but since the cone type damping is listed in the Series 2a parts book, the change must have been after the 2a was introduced.

John

i fired off some emails thismorning to a few spring mobs assumeing all swb springs are the same for all modles i shouldent have a problem. what about the front tracta joints are there parts around to sort these? what about steering box stuff? sorry for all the dumb questions

Originally Posted by JDNSW

That is correct, and the railko setup is definitely superior. Change is not listed in the parts book, but since the cone type damping is listed in the Series 2a parts book, the change must have been after the 2a was introduced.

John

John the change was after the Series 2 and the conversion is listed in the Series 2 workshop manual as is the method to install them.

460cixy, make sure that you specified the conversion kit, as they usually just send out the later type for the pendant steering arms (arms on the bottom of the swivel housing). To install the kit look on the long side of the steering arm between the two studs, You will find a hole for a locking pin. This needs to be pushed or drilled out before you can press out the original splined pins for the bronze cone.

When you re-fit the the large seal make sure you do it as per the manual getting the shims right to centralise the seal first and the pre-load second. Put a sealant like silicone on the back of the seal and retaining plate as this sometimes a reason for oil leaks by-passing the seal itself.

The shackles, shocks and bushes are the same for the 86" as the series Series 2. The chassis bush for the series 3 is too big.

I usually use All 4 X Four Spares in Kotara (Newcastle) for parts like these. They do mail order.

Diana

Originally Posted by 460cixy

i fired off some emails thismorning to a few spring mobs assumeing all swb springs are the same for all modles i shouldent have a problem. what about the front tracta joints are there parts around to sort these? what about steering box stuff? sorry for all the dumb questions

As mentioned above, it does not have Tracta joints (only on 80") - they are conventional Hardy-Spicer cross and bearing joints minus the seals and grease ways. The exact replacement without the seals and greaseways is hard to find, but the seals can be removed from the one which is available from any bearing supplier, and the greaseways do not matter. Leave out the grease nipple.

John

so its got a jeep style/dana 60 uj instead of the older tracta joint . i havent busted it open yet to have a look but i know its full of grease not oil so its all going to be rooted All 4 X Four Spares in Kotara ile get on to them . whats the story on geting the chassie bush in being a steel shell i bet its a real pain

Originally Posted by 460cixy

... whats the story on geting the chassie bush in being a steel shell i bet its a real pain

Grease in the swivel usually means the seal is gone and it's a pain because you have to remove the ball from the axle housing (I won't mention that some people cut the seal, put the cut at the top and re-hook the spring).

Getting the bushes out is the pain because on the early cars there were often 2 short bushes which get a rust ridge between them, when you put in full length bushes you come up against the ridge. The answer is to clean out the hole in the chassis with on of those little "flap discs" you put on a drill or a dremmel and clean off any rust or crud and lubricate the hole and bush with grease before you put it in. To pull the bush in, get some 9/16" threaded rod and a few nuts and some heavy washers. It is important to get at least two that fit around the outside of the inner tube of the bush and some 9/16" ones for the rod. You use a big and small washer behind the bush, poke the rod through the hole in the chassis and another pair of washes on the other side of the chassis. Then you merely wind the bush into place. back off a few threads every so often and when getting close to the end, check to make sure that the large washer on the inside of the chassis located around the inner tube as it comes through the chassis. Done!

Make sure you put plenty of grease on the shackle pin when you put it in and don't fully tighten up the pins until the vehicle is sitting on it's own wheels on level ground.

Diana