Thread: tips for recommissioning

As Series 1 has an electric fuel pump, the fuel in the carburetter should not be needed. However, it might be worth ensuring that it is pumping and that fuel can be drained from the carburetter. (This assumes original engine - I can't remember what Arfa has)

I would also be inclined to remove the fuel filler tube and have a good look in the tank with a torch - if what you see doesn't look too good, removing the drain plug and flushing it out might be a good idea!

When turning the engine over by hand, check that the compression is about the same on each cylinder - might take a few turns to get to this stage. If there is no compression on one cylinder, suspect a stuck valve - remove the rocker covers to check and see if it can be easily freed.

And, of course, make sure the cooling system is full* and no serious leaks.

* Originally it would have specified soft water, but coolant is a good idea.

John

check the radiator is full

replace the fuel in the tank

is there a float bowl drain on the carb? if so open it and leave it open

pour a few ml of diesel down the plug holes

crank it over with the plugs out (on the starter if you like) to get the oil circulating and to check that the fuel is getting to the carb

plugs in, carb drain shut, cap full of fuel as you save, kick him in the guts.

Originally Posted by procrastination inc

check the radiator is full


pour a few ml of diesel down the plug holes

Thanks P

Yep - radiator was on my list. Bought some of that flush/cleaner too.

Assume diesel down the plug holes is to wet up dry cylinder/valves -would a spray lubricant do the same job?

D

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Series 1 has an electric fuel pump - I can't remember what Arfa has)

have a good look in the tank with a torch

check that the compression is about the same on each cylinder


John

Thanks John

Arfa has original engine so will listen for electric pump

Fuel tank and it looks clean with no rust and no loose 'bits' in the bottom - a few inches of fuel still there but will drain and refill.

Bought a little bottle of 'lead replacement valve saver' additive, but what octane unleaded should I be putting in - reg or premium?

How should I be checking compression - do I need an instrument for this?

Thanks again

D

Originally Posted by dreamin'

Thanks John

Arfa has original engine so will listen for electric pump

Fuel tank and it looks clean with no rust and no loose 'bits' in the bottom - a few inches of fuel still there but will drain and refill.

Bought a little bottle of 'lead replacement valve saver' additive, but what octane unleaded should I be putting in - reg or premium?

How should I be checking compression - do I need an instrument for this?

Thanks again

D

Lead replacement is probably not necessary - and with a compression ratio of 6.9:1 it was designed to run on low grade fuel, and standard unleaded is quite OK.

Just crank it over by hand, you will feel the compression, testing the four cylinders in two complete turns. At this stage you don't need to actually measure it. If you don't have a crankhandle, either get one or make (get made) one - they are a simple piece of bent steel - check diameter with the hole in the bumper, you want a crank of about 30cm, and a cross pin 7-8mm diameter. You can do without a sleeve on the handle if you use a glove, or a suitable bit of thin wall pipe will work.

I would remove the main jet carrier on the side of the carburetter (opposite side of the bowl from memory - if it is not clean behind it, expect to have to strip and clean the carburetter - and turn the ignition on to operate the pump until fuel starts to run out - switch off and replace the jet carrier. Switch on again, and the pump should stop clicking in a few (10-20) seconds after the bowl is full. If it doesn't, you have either a stuck needle valve, a faulty pump, or a fuel leak, any of which you need to fix before trying to start. (pump may take a while to suck fuel up from the tank - if it takes longer than about a minute, you have an air leak in the suction line or something under a pump valve, or the screen on the pickup in the tank is gummed up. Don't run the pump continuously for more than three or four minutes hoping to pick up, as it will overheat.

John

low compression engines can't really take advantage of the more expensive premium fuels.

I'd reckon the cheapest unleaded would be fine

Originally Posted by procrastination inc

low compression engines can't really take advantage of the more expensive premium fuels.

I'd reckon the cheapest unleaded would be fine

Not in my experience,

BP 95 for my 80"s make them run and drive the smoothest.

They were designed to run on 72 octane post war unleaded, hence the really hard valve seats.

You find though especially with the 1.6 you need to advance the static timing quite a lot to account for the high octance fuel compared to what the book says, which is for 72 octane on the early cars, but you just do this on the distributor adjuster and if they start pinking you have gone too far, then just back the advance off a bit.

I agree with 260AC - the best way to test different fuels is to use them over the same roads for a consistently long time e.g. weeks.

There are so many variables which affect fuel consumption, that there is little point listing them but if you keep accurate records by recording: the distance travelled; exact litres used; traffic conditions; air temperature; wind etc., you will have a fair idea after about a month, which fuel if any, performs better.

So far Premium ULP wins hands-down on my tests by as much as 4 or 5 m.p.g.