Thanks to Chrisrangie for the video upload tip:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvKbzmgeh4M"]YouTube - Land Rover Series 1 1956 rebuild[/ame]
Ian
S1 1956 86"
UPDATE:
After a great deal of messing about trying to fix up the starter motor, I finally gave up and took it to Auto electricians. They were to quote me for repair. Two weeks and a lot of excuses later they told me it was refurbished and I owed them $240...No quote, no choice...great! They apologised, and told me I could leave it with them, or pay and take it away with 12 months warranty....I paid up..and resolved to find new auto electricians in future.
Good news is that with some new plugs, some petrol down the throat of the carb and the coil jerry rigged, I got the engine running. I need new plug tops and leads, but it is firing on all four and sounds good.
I've compression tested the cyls, and I've got from 90 PSI to 120 PSI, what's normal for a 7:1 compression engine? 1 is 120, 2 is 100, 3 is 90, 4 is 85. Worn engine, but no oil in the water or water in the oil as far as I can tell (Doesn't look like there has ever been any anti corrosion/freeze in the block either, phew talk about rusty).
Attached is video of it firing and starting for the first time. I can't figure out why it's not uploading...I'll try again later) I've been able to turn the engine over, but never get it started until now. Tested the petrol pump and that works, so just need to sort out some fuel line and get the carb fixed.
Next step carb....
Ian
S1 '56 86"
Thanks to Chrisrangie for the video upload tip:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvKbzmgeh4M"]YouTube - Land Rover Series 1 1956 rebuild[/ame]
Ian
S1 1956 86"
I don't have a Series 1 manual, but the 2.25 engine with the same compression is quoted at 145psi. But note that this is with the engine hot, and with plenty of oil splashed about on the cylinder walls. Any figures with the engine cold and having only run for a few minutes are unreliable.
Rust in the cooling system is normal on engines of this vintage - antifreeze was not specified except in freezing areas, and neither was any corrosion inhibitor - you were just admonished to use soft water, rainwater for preference. (A good idea to put some in when you have refurbished it though!)
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
The engine in my 1958 88" has comp of around 110 psi to 116 psi the manual reads
:Compression pressure (at starter motor cranking speed, i.e, 300 rpm with engine hot & carburetter butterfly fully open)
125lb/sq.in, 8,8kg/cm2
Hope it helps.
Hi Ian,
thanks for the Vid, so my instructions made sense thenim usually good at confusing people. LoL
great to hear it fire up, sounds good.
is it a 2.0L motor?
cheers,
Chris![]()
Yes, It's more than likely the original 2L LR engine. It has spreadbore cyl and oil filteringwhich is right for the year and the numbers tie pretty close to the age of the car. I've had it started a few times now, and it sounds remarkably smooth for a 53 year old pushrod engine which more than likely has been under maintained at some points of it's life.
It's such a great feeling getting the thing to fire isn't it, almost a Dr Frankenstein feeling of life creation.
I was lookin at your pics, and it sits a lot higher than mine, is that just due to the new springs verses the ancient ones on mine? Or have you given it a bit of a lift?
Ian
S1 1956 86"
yeah i love firing up engines wether they are new or have just been sitting around for a while very much like Frankenstein......LoL![]()
Yes, i have new front springs and 2nd hand rears had them reset and it is also
on 7.50 tyres as i wanted it to sit a little higher than the standard height.
cheers,
Chris![]()
Final update on my rebuild of the series1.
I sourced and fitted a Stromberg carby, got the 2L motor running, sourced a half decent firewall from a donor LWB had it shot blasted, primed and I patched a couple of holes ( big 6 cyl Holden engine had needed the firewall modified in the LW.
The project sat for a year while I tried to fix up the chassis, but my welding skills never quite got there and patience ( my wife's) ran out. I advertised the stripped down S1 about a year ago and sold it to an older guy who had the time and the skill. He'd just rebuilt a 1950's Riley.
I spent a year convincing my wife that a better condition LR would be the way to go, and i've just realised my Landrover dream and bought a running series III. A west Queensland farm 1973 SWB soft top. (Very little rust at all) A much more achievable project for my skill levels. It's pretty much original apart from the Stromberg Holden carb and the pancake filter. It's got FWH fitted, which I'll remove in time and a Fairley OD. So this is me signing off from the S1 space and defecting to the SIII space. Thanks for the help....
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