Thread: 1955 S1 rebuild

With the spring eye bolt sounds like its sized to the spring bush, i wouldnt keep bashing away at it as it rarely works best bet would be to use a hack saw & cut the bolt between the spring and where it mounted onto the chassis. Also make sure the vehicle is well surported.

Well finally last night the gearbox came out had already removed most bolts previously but removing without a jack is hard work so i dropped the box to the floor and then raised the rear with a hi lift jack done. as the overdrive was taken out the oil drained all over the garage floor bugger. spent some time cleaning up though need more time to clean completely.

spring bolt at rear still no go though - wanna remove the rear axle/spring but one bolt is holding me up.it turns with a lot of force but wont come undone. thought of grinding both ends but then im left with the piece in the centre. hammering has been useless. wd40 no effect either. any other suggestions

need to move the box out of the garage for now and get onto stripping the engine off the chassis. took the clutch off but not the flywheel yet though all bolts removed. box turns by hand no probs. but engine wont turn at all. this was where my prob was with the engine seizing. should the engine turn by hand. starter still in. i will remove and look under the sump for any probs but thats where the prob lies. chain is on and ok. surely with the motor stripped of most parts the crankshaft should turn, am i right?

will post pics next week when i get a chance. wanna start again on the chassis repaint and clean up.

Originally Posted by Lost Landy

With the spring eye bolt sounds like its sized to the spring bush, i wouldnt keep bashing away at it as it rarely works best bet would be to use a hack saw & cut the bolt between the spring and where it mounted onto the chassis. Also make sure the vehicle is well surported.

Yes it seems to be a fairly common problem on older landies ... the front off side shackle bolt was seized on my 107" ..No amount of persuading would make it move . I cut it off with a thin cutting disc from memory ..I managed to insert the disc between the hanger and the spring..not much room there but it did work OK.. hacksaw is slow and laborious . Once the spring is removed its easy to press out whats left of the bolt . They tend to rust in place .

Happy as Larry Thx for the many suggestions and I successfully removed the seized bolt last night after grinding as suggested between the hangers and spring. Rear axle out and the night before the box came out as well.

Lookin at the rear springs not sure whether to reset them or just buy replacement new ones. Trying to keep within a budget but are the springs worth cleaning up and re using or am i wasting time with them. Melb firm retails springs approx $130 each. what have others done with their older springs. Not sure of cost to re set them and whether that included cleaning them up and painted them as well.

Need to store this stuff out of garage as i hate being swamped with parts and not having leg room to move about.

My next headache is removing the engine block minus head (already removed) and the front axle so can complete the cleanup of the chassis. Wish i had a engine hoist. Work thru out some older hoists for lifting disabled patients out of bed would have worked a treat for the engine but too late for that.

flywheel still wont rotate need to lighten the load of the engine so then i can raise the chassis and slide from underneat or drop the chassis & pull block out. bought some supercheap blue engine enamel cant wait to spray the stuff on. hope the one can will last as i intend to do the sump black.

firewall complete except for paint now. paint sealer used. petrol tank partially complete. needs another coat of black paint.

tie rod ends are proving a prob as well - whats the easiest way to pop them out. nut is off or loose but the tie rod end will not dislodge even with hammering or wd40. any suggestions please. cheers

Originally Posted by shamirj

.... Melb firm retails springs approx $130 each. what have others done with their older springs. ...

I bought some of the springs for the front of my '51, from the mob in Melbourne with the great catalogue but not always parts quality and service to match.

The big problem was that even with the engine in place the capstan fitted and me jumping up and down on the chassis there was no perceivable movement in the springs.

I removed them, found some good quality second hand springs, linished them with a "flap disk", fitted new bushes. When fitted up they have the movement that springs are designed to have.

The other springs are now on a trailer that has a habit of getting overloaded.

Diana

Originally Posted by shamirj

Happy as Larry Thx for the many suggestions and I successfully removed the seized bolt last night after grinding as suggested between the hangers and spring. Rear axle out and the night before the box came out as well.

Lookin at the rear springs not sure whether to reset them or just buy replacement new ones. Trying to keep within a budget but are the springs worth cleaning up and re using or am i wasting time with them. Melb firm retails springs approx $130 each. what have others done with their older springs. Not sure of cost to re set them and whether that included cleaning them up and painted them as well.

Need to store this stuff out of garage as i hate being swamped with parts and not having leg room to move about.

My next headache is removing the engine block minus head (already removed) and the front axle so can complete the cleanup of the chassis. Wish i had a engine hoist. Work thru out some older hoists for lifting disabled patients out of bed would have worked a treat for the engine but too late for that.

flywheel still wont rotate need to lighten the load of the engine so then i can raise the chassis and slide from underneat or drop the chassis & pull block out. bought some supercheap blue engine enamel cant wait to spray the stuff on. hope the one can will last as i intend to do the sump black.

firewall complete except for paint now. paint sealer used. petrol tank partially complete. needs another coat of black paint.

tie rod ends are proving a prob as well - whats the easiest way to pop them out. nut is off or loose but the tie rod end will not dislodge even with hammering or wd40. any suggestions please. cheers

Old timers used to reset springs by hammering them.. you use a anvil and a heavy hammer ....you need to be fit to attempt this....use leather gloves etc.

Disassemble the spring ... place each leaf over the horn of the anvil and hit it repeatedly with the heavy hammer ..the blows somehow revitalise the spring....some people say the springs have a memory ... and the internal molecules are bounced back to their original position by hammering . Don't do this on a cold Winters day as the leaves might crack..it's best done on a warm day .....lay the leaves out in the sun for an hour first to warm them up.. Trouble is anvils are not common these days ... every town had them when horses were for transport , farriers etc.

...

Originally Posted by shamirj

Happy as Larry

tie rod ends are proving a prob as well - whats the easiest way to pop them out. nut is off or loose but the tie rod end will not dislodge even with hammering or wd40. any suggestions please. cheers

Sounds like the threads have rusted together. Try heating them up with an oxy set and turning the tie rod end whilst hot. If it moves, soak it in penetrating oil and try again when it has cooled. I don't think heat will alter the strength of the rods but someone on here might know differently.

If you can save the rods, use Loctite Anti-seize, or similar, on them when you put the new ends in,

Cheers Charlie

When i was doing my Automotive Apprenticeship we were always told never to heat up any componat that is part of the steering as it can soften it & lose strength.
Just my 10c worth.